Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
seats and stone steps which are high and dry, except in stormy weather.
Hither come the sea-dogs of Proteus, and lie down in the magic hall.
Alas! I saw none of them, they had gone out on a water-excursion; I
alarmed nothing but wild doves and dippers. The bottom is deep and
clear; shells, fishes, and sea-weeds may be seen. It might be worth
one's while to erect a summer-house here occasionally, in which to read
the _Odyssey_, and keep silent watch as the creatures of the mysterious
ocean-depths come in. Man understands neither the plant nor the beast
which live on the dry land like himself, and are his daily companions,
still less those dumb, strangely-formed creatures of the great element.
They live and have their own laws and understanding, their own joys and
sorrows, their own love and hate. Unlike terrestrial animals, bound
to the clod, they rove through the boundless element, and dwell in
the ever clear, crystalline deeps; form mighty republics, have their
revolutions, their migrations, and piratical excursions, and the most
charming water-parties, too, when they will.
The coast from Cape Pertusato to Bonifazio is much broken by the sea,
and torn up into singular shapes. Many organic remains may be found
there; and, among other things, a remarkable species of architectural
spider. This spider constructs for itself, in the sand of the coast, a
complete little sand-house; and in the sand-house a little door, which
it can open or shut at pleasure. If it wishes to be alone, it shuts the
door; if it wishes to go abroad, it opens it and goes out, taking its
daughters with it, to enjoy a promenade by the beautiful strait, if only
they have been industrious and have spun enough of their marriage outfit
for one day. This excellent little building-spider is called the _Mygal
pionnière_, or the Araignée Maçonne of Corsica.
I saw likewise the _Scalina di Alfonso_, the steps of the King of
Arragon; hewn by him, says tradition, out of the rock, close under
the walls of the town. Because Alfonso, they say, was unable to reduce
the city, he fell on the bold plan of hewing a secret approach up the
perpendicular cliff. Accordingly, by night the Spanish were in the
habit of landing at a spot, invisible from the walls, where a grotto
is formed in the side of the hill, containing fresh water, and capable
of concealing three hundred men. There the Spanish cut out the steps,
and, in fact, had succeeded in reaching the fortress-walls, when a
woman perceived them, gave the alarm, and the citizens, hastening to
the spot, hurled them back. Such is the legend; so we must call it, for
it seems to me incredible that the Spanish should have hewn out these
obliquely-ascending small steps without being seen by the Bonifazians.
The monks of San Francesco cut out for themselves a stair of a similar
kind, by which to descend to bathe; but it too is for the most part worn
away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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