Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
In two hours we had climbed Trigione, and the white snow-covered summit
lay before us. Its steep and jagged cliffs form an incomplete circle
(hence the name Rotondo—round), partly hollowed out, like a crater; and
where this huge wild amphitheatre of rocks opens, lies a little dark
lake, the Lago di Monte Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes; an
ice-cold draught in a giant beaker of granite. Snow-fields rise from the
lake to the summit—a strange sight, and producing a peculiar impression,
in the hottest dog-days, under a southern sky and the 42d degree of
latitude. They were covered with a crust of ice, and perceptibly cooled
the air near them. But though I was in the region of eternal snow,
I found the temperature pleasantly cool and bracing, and by no means
uncomfortably low.
The summit appeared to the eye near enough, yet it took us two full
hours' climbing, often on our hands and feet, over the shattered
fragments of rock, before we reached it. The most difficult part of
it was the ascent over a strip of snow, on which we could not keep our
footing. We succeeded, however, by dint of hammering steps in the icy
crust with sharp stones, in making cautious progress. At length, much
exhausted, we reached the extreme peak, a torn and rugged obelisk of
gray rock ending in a slender pinnacle, clinging to which one manages
to support himself on the giddy and somewhat perilous height.
From this highest point of Corsica, then, 9000 feet (exactly 2764
metres) above the sea level, I saw the greater part of the island,
and the sea far below washing its coast on both sides—a sight of
inexpressible grandeur, once to have enjoyed which may justly be to any
man a life-long source of pleasant thought. The horizon which the eye
can take in from Rotondo is much grander and more beautiful than that
afforded by Mont Blanc. The view ranges far over the island itself into
the glittering distances of the sea, over the Tuscan islands to the
mainland of Italy, which in clear weather shows the white Alps of the
northern lakes, and the entire bend of the coast from Nice to Rome. On
the other side rise the mountains of Toulon, and the wondrous panorama
thus includes within its magic circle, mountains, seas, islands, the
Alps, the Apennines, and Sardinia. I was not so fortunate as to have the
prospect presented to me in its entire magnificence, for the clouds that
rolled themselves unceasingly up from the ravines, and the exhalations,
deprived me of part of the distance. To the north I saw the peninsula
of Cape Corso stretching itself into the sea like a dagger; to the east
the level coast country descending in easy lines, the islands of the
Tuscan sea, and Tuscany itself; to the west the Gulfs of Prato, Sagone,
Ajaccio, and Valinco. Ajaccio showed itself very distinctly on its
tongue of land in the beautiful bay—a row of little white houses, that
looked like swans swimming in the sea. The sea itself seemed an ocean
of light.
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