Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The forest of Vizzavona is, next to that of Aitone in the canton of
Evisa, the largest in Corsica. All these forests are in the mountainous
districts. Some belong to the state, most of them to the communes.
Nothing, comparatively speaking, has yet been made of them. I observed
a snake sunning itself by the wayside. Corsica has only two species of
snakes, and no poisonous animals except a spider called Malmignatto—the
bite of which produces a sudden chill all over the body, and sometimes
death—and the venomous ant Innafantato.
It was about noon when I passed through the forest. There was a
suffocating heat in the atmosphere, but the wood offered its cool
springs. Everywhere they trickle down the rocks to swell the waters of
the Gravone; their water is cold and pleasant. Seneca can never have
tasted the Corsican mountain streams, else he would not have said in
his epigram that Corsica could not afford a draught of water.
At length I reached the ridge of the hills, at the highest point on
the road to Ajaccio, 3500 feet above the level of the sea. This is the
Foce, or Pass of Vizzavona, frequently mentioned in the Corsican popular
songs.
The road now descends into the valley of Gravone. Two chains of
mountains confine this fruitful valley. The northern, running out from
Monte d'Oro, ends above Ajaccio in the Punta della Parata. It separates
the basin of the Gravone from that of the Liamone. The southern runs out
in a parallel direction from Monte Renoso, and separates the valleys
of the Gravone and the Prunelli. On both sides of the Gravone stand
villages on the hills. They have a more cheerful appearance than any I
have ever seen in Corsica.
The first village we enter in this canton is Bocognano, which lies
near the mouth of the wild gorge of Vizzavona. On every side rise
dark, wooded hills with snowy summits; the whole region is of a stern,
impressive character. They are herdsmen that dwell here—poor men, but
stout in heart and strong in arm. They live on milk, or on chestnuts.
Many manufacture the pelone. Every one goes armed in this district. The
sight of these powerful men, with their double-barrels and carchera, and
in the brown woollen blouse, accords well with the gloomy Alpine heights
and the pine-forests all around. These Corsican highlanders look as if
they were made of iron, like the fusils which they carry. The people
here seemed to be still sticking fast in all the rust and rudeness of
the Middle Ages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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