Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The ancient Ajaccio, however, did not occupy the site of the present
town; it lay on an eminence farther to the north. The hill is called San
Giovanni; on its summit lie the ruins of an old castle, named _Castello
Vecchio_, and there formerly lay near them the remains of an ancient
cathedral, in which it was customary for the bishops of Ajaccio to
be consecrated, long after it had fallen into decay. These ruins have
vanished; nothing now betrays the former existence of a city on this
spot. But many ancient Roman coins have been found in the vineyards;
also oval-shaped sarcophagi of terracotta, always containing a skeleton
and a key. It is said that the vaulted tombs of the Moorish kings were
also formerly shown here; but they have disappeared.
The new town and the citadel were founded by the Bank of St. George
of Genoa in the year 1492. It was the residence of a lieutenant of the
Governor of Bastia, and did not become the capital of the island till
the year 1811, when it was elevated to its new dignity at the instance
of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch, who wished in this way to give
distinction to their own and the Emperor's birthplace.
The best view of the town and its environs is from the hill of San
Giovanni. It presents one of the prettiest pictures that can be
imagined, and is equalled by no other city in Corsica. The distance is
incomparable. Cloud-topped hills stretching far into the interior, the
majestic gulf in azure splendour, an Italian vegetation and a southern
sky—no finer combination could be thought of; and here in the midst
of it lies a quite idyllic, silent, innocent little town of 11,500
inhabitants, concealed among the verdure of its elms, the mistress of a
region which seems intended to be the environment of one of the capitals
of the world.
Ajaccio lies on a tongue of land, the extremity of which is occupied
by the castle. Portions of the town stretch on each side of this tongue
along the gulf. The avenue of elms and planes which leads into the city
is continued along its main street—the Cours Napoleon, which is properly
the prolongation of the road from Corte. Part of it has had to be
blasted through the rocks, two of which still stand at the entrance of
the town, close to the houses. In the Corso itself the elms give place
to orange-trees of considerable size, which give the street a rich and
festive look. The houses are high, but destitute of architectural merit.
The gray jalousies are characteristic; this is the colour preferred in
Corsica, while in Italy they are usually of a lively green. The gray
gives to the buildings a dead, monotonous air. All the more considerable
edifices of the Corso stand on the right side; the little Theatre, the
Prefecture—a handsome building—and the military barracks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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