Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Thanks to the eloquent appeals our _calesero_ never ceased making
to his mule, and to the pebbles which he continually threw with
great dexterity at her ears, we got on pretty well. Under trying
circumstances, he called her _vieja_, _revieja_ (old, twice old),
to which injurious terms all mules appear, in general, particularly
sensitive, either because the said terms are always accompanied
by a blow on the back with the handle of the whip, or because
they really are in themselves very offensive. By the aid of these
epithets, aptly applied several times, we arrived at the gates of
Madrid at about five in the evening.
We were already acquainted with Madrid, and saw nothing new in it,
with the exception of the procession of the Corpus Christi: this
ceremony has, however, lost much of its former splendour, by the
suppression of the convents and religious fraternities; though
it still retains an appearance of great solemnity. The streets
through which the procession passes are strewed with fine sand,
while canvass _tendidos_, which reach from house to house, afford
protection from the sun and keep the air cool: the balconies are
decorated with flags and crowded with pretty women in full dress;
so that, altogether, the sight is one of the most charming that
can well be imagined. The perpetual motion of the fans, which
open and shut, tremble and flutter, like the wings of a butterfly
about to settle down somewhere; the movements of the elbows of
the women, wrapping themselves in their mantles and smoothing
an ungraceful wrinkle in their dress; the glances sent from one
window to acquaintances at another; the pretty inclination of
the head, and the graceful gesture that accompany the _agur_ by
which the _señoras_ reply to the salutations of the cavaliers;
the picturesque crowd, interspersed with _Gallegos_, _Pasiegas_,
Valencians, _Manolas_, and water-sellers, form a spectacle of the
greatest animation and the most charming gaiety. The _Niños de la
Cuna_ (foundlings), dressed in their blue uniform, walk at the head
of the procession. There were but very few out of this long file
of children who were endowed with pretty faces; and Hymen himself,
with all his conjugal carelessness, would have been troubled to
produce offspring uglier than were these children of Love. Then
follow the parochial banners, the clergy, silver shrines, and,
under a canopy of gold cloth, the Corpus Dei, in a sun of diamonds
of the most dazzling brilliancy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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