Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
At five o'clock, we rose to go and take a turn while waiting for
supper. Ocaña is not rich in monumental buildings, and its best
title to celebrity is the desperate attack made by Spanish troops
on a French redout during the war of invasion. The redout was
taken, but nearly the whole of the Spanish battalion was killed.
Each hero was interred on the spot where he fell. The ranks were
so well kept, in spite of a deluge of grape, that they can still
be traced by the regularity of the graves. Diamante has written a
piece called "The Hercules of Ocaña," produced, no doubt, for some
athletic champion of prodigious strength, like the Goliath of the
Olympic Circus. Our presence at Ocaña called this circumstance to
our memory.
The last of the harvest was being got in at an epoch when the
corn scarcely begins to assume its yellow tint in France, and the
sheaves were carried to large areas of beaten earth, where horses
and mules tread out the grain beneath their unshod hoofs. Both
mules and horses are harnessed to a sort of sledge, on which the
man superintending the operations stands upright in a posture of
proud and graceful ease. Much self-command and skill are required
to keep on this frail machine, as it is whisked along by three or
four horses which are ever being lashed most lustily. A painter of
the school of Leopold Robert would not fail to turn these scenes of
Biblical and primitive simplicity to great account. Fine swarthy
faces, sparkling eyes, Madonna-like features, costumes full of
character, brilliant light, azure and sun would not fail him here
any more than in Italy.
That evening the sky was of a milky blue colour, dashed with rose;
the fields appeared, as far as the eye could reach, like an immense
sheet of pale gold, where, here and there, you perceived a cart,
looking like a small island in an ocean of light, and drawn by oxen
which were almost hidden beneath the sheaves with which the cart
was loaded. The wild notion of a picture without shade, which is so
inherent to the Chinese, was realized here. All was sun and light;
and the deepest tint that appeared upon the scene was of pearl grey.
At length we were summoned to a pretty good supper, or which, at
least, our appetites made us think so; it was served in a low room,
decorated with little paintings on glass, of somewhat curious
Venetian taste. After supper, as my companion, Eugène, and myself,
were but mediocre smokers, and as we could take but a very small
part in the conversation, on account of the necessity we were under
of saying everything we had to say in the two or three hundred
words with which we were acquainted, we withdrew to our rooms,
greatly discouraged at the different stories about robbers which
we had heard related at table, and which, as they were only half
understood, appeared all the more terrible to us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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