Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
As soon as the Sierra Morena is passed, the aspect of the country
undergoes a total change; it is like going all at once from Europe
to Africa; vipers, crawling to their nests, leave their oblique
marks on the fine gravel of the roads; and the aloe begins to
brandish its large thorny sabres at the sides of the ditches.
These large fans of thick, brawny, bluish-grey leaves immediately
throw a different appearance over the whole landscape. You feel
that you are in a new country; you understand that you have
really quitted Paris; but the difference in the climate, in the
architecture, and in the costumes, does not astonish you so much
as the presence of the large vegetables belonging to the torrid
regions, and which we are only accustomed to behold in hothouses,
in France. The laurels, the holm oaks, the cork, and the fig-trees,
with their varnished and metallic-looking foliage, have about them
something free, robust, and wild, which indicates a climate in
which nature is more powerful than man, and in which she can do
without him.
Before us extended the fine country of Andalusia, unfolding itself
to our view, like an immense panorama. The scene possessed the
grandeur and appearance of the sea: chains of mountains, which
distance confounded with the sky itself, succeeded one another,
with the gentlest undulations, like long rows of billows of azure.
Large clouds of white vapour filled up the intervals; and here and
there the rays of the sun streaked with gold some of the nearer
mountain-tops, and made them sparkle with a thousand colours like
a pigeon's breast. Other ridges, curiously irregular, resembled
those draperies in ancient pictures which were yellow on one side
and blue on the other. The whole was inundated with a most dazzling
and splendid light, similar to that which must have illuminated the
terrestrial paradise. It streamed through this ocean of mountains
like liquid gold and silver, dashing a phosphorescent foam of
spangles on every obstacle it met with. The scene before us was
much more vast than the grandest perspectives of Martin, and
infinitely more beautiful. The infinite in things filled with light
is sublime and stupendous in a far different manner to the infinite
in things smothered in darkness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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