Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The fashionable world of Granada assemble on the Saloon, between
seven and eight in the evening; the carriages follow along the
road, but they are for the most part empty, as the Spaniards are
very fond of walking, and in spite of their pride, deign to use
their own legs. Nothing can be more charming than to see the young
women and young girls pass to and fro in little groups, dressed
in their mantillas, with their arms bare, real flowers in their
hair, satin shoes on their feet, and a fan in their hand, followed
at some distance by their friends and sweethearts, for, as we
have already said, when speaking of the Prado at Madrid, it is
not customary in Spain for the women to take the arms of the men.
This habit of walking alone gives them a bold, elegant, and free
deportment unknown to our women, who are always hanging to some arm
or other. As artists say, they carry themselves beautifully. This
perpetual separation of the men from the women, at least in public,
already smacks of the East.
A sight of which the people of the North can have no idea, is
the Alameda of Granada at sunset. The Sierra Neveda, whose
denticulated ridges face the city on this side, assumes the most
unimaginable hues. Its whole steep and rugged flank and all its
peaks, struck by the light, become of a rose-colour, dazzling
to behold; ideal, fabulous, shot with silver, and streaked with
iris and opal-like reflections, which would make the freshest
tints on the artist's palette appear thick and dirty: the hues
of mother-of-pearl, the transparency of the ruby, and veins of
agate and advanturine that would defy all the fairy jewellery of
the "Thousand-and-one Nights," are to be seen there. The hollows,
crevices, anfractuosities, and all the places which the rays of the
setting sun cannot reach are of a blue colour which vies with the
azure of the sky and sea, with the lapis-lazuli and the sapphire;
this contrast of hue between light and shade produces a wonderful
effect: the mountain seems to have put on an immense robe of shot
silk spangled and bordered with silver; little by little, the
bright colours disappear and turn to violet mezzotintos, darkness
invades the lower ridges, the light withdraws towards the summit,
and all the plain has long since been in obscurity, while the
silver diadem of the Sierra still shines out in the serenity of the
sky, beneath the parting kiss sent it by the sun.
The company take a turn or two more and then disperse, some going
to take sherbet or _agraz_ at the _café_ of Don Pedro Hurtado,
where you get the best ice in Granada, and others to the _tertulia_
at their friends' and acquaintances' houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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