Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
We will traverse the garden of Lindaraja without stopping, for
it is nothing but an uncultivated piece of ground, strewed with
rubbish, and bristling with brushwood; we will therefore visit,
for an instant, the Bath-room of the Sultana, which is coated with
square pieces of mosaic-work of glazed clay, and bordered with
filigree-work that would make the most complicated madrepores
blush. A fountain is in the middle of the room, and two alcoves are
in the wall. It was here that the Moorish Sultanas used to come to
repose themselves on square pieces of golden cloth, after having
enjoyed the pleasure and luxury of an oriental bath. The galleries
or balconies, in which the singers and musicians used to be placed,
are still seen, and are at a height of about fifteen feet from the
ground. The baths themselves resemble large troughs, and each of
them is made out of one piece of white marble; they are placed in
little vaulted closets, lighted by open-worked stars or roses. For
fear of becoming irksome by repetition, we will not speak of the
Hall of Secrets, whose acoustic powers are productive of a very
curious effect, and the corners of whose walls are blackened by
the noses of those inquisitive persons who go and whisper, in one
corner, some impertinence that is faithfully carried to another;
nor of the Hall of the Nymphs, over the door of which is an
excellent bas-relief of Jupiter changed into a swan and caressing
Leda, and which said bas-relief is most extraordinarily free in
its composition, and very audacious in its execution; nor of the
apartments of Charles the Fifth, which are in a dreadful state
of devastation, and which possess nothing curious, with the
exception of their roofs, studded with the ambitious device of _Non
plus ultra_; but we will go direct to the Court of Lions, the most
curious and best preserved part of the Alhambra.
[Illustration: PAVILION OF THE COURT OF LIONS, ALHAMBRA.]
English engravings and the numerous drawings which have been
published of the Court of Lions convey but a very incomplete and
false idea of it: nearly all of them fail to give the proper
proportions, and, in consequence of the over-loading necessitated
by the fact of representing the infinite details of Arabian
architecture, suggest the idea of a monument of much greater
importance.
The Court of Lions is a hundred and twenty feet long, seventy-three
broad, while the galleries which surround it are not more than
twenty-two feet high. They are formed by a hundred and twenty-eight
columns of white marble placed in a symmetrical disorder of four
and four, and of three and three, together: these columns, the
capitals of which are full of work and still preserve traces of
gold and colour, support arches of extreme elegance and of quite a
unique shape.
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