Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Romero said nothing, and yet
his dress was made of thin linen, and all that he had to wrap round
him was a narrow piece of cloth.
At last the dawn appeared; we were enveloped in a cloud, and
Romero advised us to begin our descent, if we wished to reach
Granada before night. When it was sufficiently light to enable us
to distinguish the various objects, I observed that Eugene was as
red as a lobster nicely boiled, and at the same moment he made an
analogous observation with respect to me, and did not feel himself
bound to conceal the fact. The young German and Louis were also
equally red; Romero alone had reserved his peculiar tint, which
resembled, by the way, that of a boot-top, and although his legs of
bronze were naked, they had not undergone the slightest alteration.
It was the biting cold and the rarefaction of the air that had
turned us this colour. Going up a mountain is nothing, because you
look at the objects above you, but coming down, with the awful
depths before your eyes, is quite a different matter. At first the
thing appeared impracticable, and Louis began screeching like a
jay who is being picked alive. However, we could not remain for
ever on the Mulhacen, which is as little adapted for the purpose of
habitation as any place in the known world, and so, with Romero
at our head, we began our descent. It would be impossible, without
laying ourselves open to the charge of exaggeration, to convey any
notion of the paths, or rather the absence of paths, by which our
dare-devil of a guide conducted us; never more break-neck obstacles
crowded together in the course marked out for any steeple-chase,
and I entertain strong doubts as to whether the feats of any
"gentlemen riders" ever outrivalled our exploits on the Mulhacen.
The _Montagnes Russes_ were mild declivities in comparison to the
precipices with which we had to do. We were almost constantly
standing up in our stirrups, and leaning back over the cruppers of
our horses, in order to avoid performing an incessant succession
of parabolas over their heads. All the lines of perspective seem
jumbled up together; the streams appeared to be flowing up towards
their source, the rocks vacillated and staggered on their bases,
and the most distant objects appeared to be only two paces off; we
had lost all feeling of proportion, an effect which is very common
in the mountains, where the enormous size of the masses, and the
vertical position of the different ranges, do not allow of your
judging distances in the ordinary manner.
In spite of every difficulty we reached Granada without our horses
having even made one false step, only they had got but one shoe
left among them all. Andalusian horses--and ours were of the most
authentic description--cannot be equalled for mountain travelling.
They are so docile, so patient, and so intelligent, that the best
thing the rider can do is to throw the reins on their necks and let
them follow their own impulse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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