Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
But however this may be, the floats of the wheels, assisted by the
stream, were driving rapidly towards Cadiz. Seville was beginning
to fade away behind us, but, by a magnificent optical effect, in
the same proportion as the roofs of the houses appeared to sink
into the ground and become confounded with the distant lines of the
horizon, the cathedral increased, and seemed to assume the most
enormous size, like an elephant standing up in the midst of a flock
of sheep lying down all around; it was not till that moment that I
gained a just idea of its immensity. The highest church-steeples
did not rise above the nave. As for the Gualda, distance gave its
rose-coloured bricks an amethyst, adventurine tint, which seems
to me incompatible with our dull climate. The statue of Faith
glittered on the summit like a golden bee on the top of a large
blade of grass. Shortly afterwards, a turn in the river concealed
Seville from our sight.
The banks of the Guadalquiver, at least as you descend the river
towards the sea, do not possess that enchanting aspect that the
descriptions of travellers and poets attribute to them. I have not
the remotest idea where these gentlemen have got the groves of
orange and pomegranate-trees, with which they perfume their songs.
In reality, you see nothing but low, sandy, ochre-coloured banks,
and yellow, troubled water, whose earthy tint cannot be attributed
to the rains, since the latter are so rare. I had already remarked
a similar want of limpidity in the Tagus; it arises, perhaps,
from the large quantity of dust that the wind carries into the
water, and from the friable nature of the soil through which the
river passes. The strong blue of the sky, also, has some share in
producing this effect, and by its extreme intensity, causes the
tones of the water, which are always less vivid, to appear dirty.
The sea alone can dispute the palm of transparency and azure with
such a sky. The river continued to become broader and broader, and
the banks flatter and smaller, while the general aspect of the
scenery reminded me forcibly of the physiognomy of the Scheldt
about Antwerp and Ostend. This recollection of Flanders in the
heart of Andalusia, seems rather strange in connexion with the
Moorish-named Guadalquiver, but it suggested itself to my mind so
naturally, that the resemblance must have been very striking; for
I can assure my readers that I was not then troubling myself about
the Scheldt nor my voyage to Flanders, some six or seven years
ago. Besides, the river presented no very animated appearance,
and the country which we could see beyond the banks appeared
uncultivated and deserted. It is true that we were in the middle
of the dog-days, during which Spain is hardly anything more than
a vast cinder-heap, without vegetation or verdure. The only
living creatures visible were herons and storks, standing with
one leg tucked under their breast and the other one half immersed
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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