Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
They possessed that purity of features, that limpidity of
look, that careless nobleness, and that air of amorous and pensive
melancholy which belong to pure races. Their father had the grave,
majestic look of a Magian king. We considered ourselves very ugly
and mean-looking by the side of this solemn personage; and it was
in the most humble tone, with hat in hand, that we asked him if
he would deign to sell us a few pairs of yellow morocco slippers.
He nodded affirmatively, and, on our observing that the price was
rather high, he replied in Spanish, with great grandeur, "I never
overcharge; such practices are only good for Christians." Thus our
want of loyalty in commercial transactions renders us an object of
contempt in the eyes of barbarous nations, who cannot understand
that a man will perjure himself, in order to make a farthing or two
more.
Having made our purchases, we went down again to the lower part of
the rock, and took a stroll along a fine promenade planted with
trees of northern climes, intermixed with flowers, sentinels, and
guns, and where you meet with broughams and horsemen just as you do
in Hyde Park. All that is wanting there is the statue of Achilles
Wellington. This promenade is outside the town, at Europa Point,
in the direction of the mountain inhabited by the monkeys. This
is the only spot in Europe where these amiable quadrumanes live
and multiply in a savage state. According as the wind changes,
they pass from one side of the rock to the other, and thus serve
as a barometer: every one is forbidden to kill them under very
heavy penalties. As for myself, I saw none; but the temperature
of the place is hot enough to allow the most chilly macacuses and
cercopithecuses to fully develop themselves, without fires or
air-stoves. Abyla, if we can believe its modern name, must delight,
on the coast of Africa, in a similar population.
The next day we left this park of artillery and land of smuggling,
to be wafted towards Malaga, with which place we were already
acquainted, but which we had great pleasure in again beholding,
with its white, slender lighthouse, and its harbour full of
perpetual movement. Viewed from the sea, the cathedral looks larger
than the town, and the ruins of the ancient Arab fortifications
impart to the sloping rocks a most romantic effect. We returned to
our inn of the Three Kings, and the pretty Dolores uttered a cry of
joy on recognising us.
The next day we again embarked with a cargo of raisins; and, as we
had lost some time, the captain resolved to pass by Ameria, and to
go direct to Cartagena.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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