Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
We had now been at Valencia some nine or ten days, waiting for
another steamer, for the weather had disorganized the regular
departure of the boats, and had greatly interfered with all
correspondence. Our curiosity was satisfied; and all we now
thought of was returning to Paris, to again behold our parents,
our friends, the dear boulevards, and the dear gutters; I even
think--may Heaven forgive me!--that I cherished the secret desire
of seeing a vaudeville; in a word, civilized life, which had
been forgotten for the last six months, called imperiously for
our return. We longed to read the daily papers, to sleep in our
own beds, and had, besides, a thousand other Bœotian fancies. At
length, a packet arrived from Gibraltar, and took us to Porte
Vendres, after allowing us to visit Barcelona, where it stopped for
a few hours. The aspect of Barcelona resembles that of Marseilles,
and there is hardly any trace of the Spanish type about it; the
edifices are large and regular, and, were it not for the immense
blue velvet trousers and the ample red caps of the Catalonians, you
would fancy yourself in a town of France. In spite of its Rambla,
planted with trees, and its handsome straight streets, Barcelona
appears somewhat cramped and stiff, like all towns which are too
tightly laced in a doublet of fortifications.
The cathedral is very handsome, especially the interior, which is
sombre, mysterious, and almost inspires you with fear.
The organ is of Gothic structure, and shuts with two large panels
covered with paintings; a Saracen's head is making a frightful
grimace beneath the pendentive which supports the organ. Beautiful
lustres of the fifteenth century, full of open-worked figures like
reliquaries, hang from the nervures of the roof. On leaving the
church, you enter a fine cloister of the same epoch; its silence
incites to reverie, and its half-ruined arcades are characterized
by the greyish tints of the old buildings of the north. The
_calle_ of _La Plateria_ (the goldsmith's art) dazzles the eyes
by its shop-fronts and glass-cases, which sparkle with jewellery,
especially with enormous ear-rings as large as small bunches
of grapes, of a heavy and massive richness; and, though rather
barbarously made, productive of a very majestic effect: they are
principally bought by peasant-women in easy circumstances.
The next day we entered, at ten o'clock in the morning, the little
bay at the end of which Porte Vendres rises. We were in France.
And--must I own it?--on setting foot on the soil of my country, I
felt my eyes fill with tears, not of joy, however, but of regret.
The Vermilion Towers, the silvery tops of the Sierra Neveda, the
rose-bays of the Generalife, the long, soft, limpid looks, the
pink-blossom lips, the little feet and the little hands of the
daughters of Spain, all came back to my mind so vividly, that it
appeared to me that France, where, however, I was about to see my
mother again, was a land of exile for me. My dream was over.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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