Dueñas, 50 Duque, the Alameda del, at Seville, 260, 261 Eagles on the Sierra Nevada, 204 Ecija, 241, 242 Encampment on the mountains, 205, 206 Environs of Madrid, 147; of Malaga, 218; of Cadiz, 278 Equipages at Madrid, 74 Ernani, town of, 19 Escopeteros, 14 Escurial, visit to the, 103-112; foundation of the building by Philip II., 104; its gloomy appearance, 104; formed like a gridiron in honour of St. Lawrence, 105; curious colour of the walls, 105, 106; the courtyard and church, 106, 107; the blind cicerone Cornelio, 107; the Pantheon, 107, 108; the sacristy, 108; the library, 108, 109; marble figure of Christ, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, 109; the dome, 109 Espada or Matador, the, 64, 69, 70 Exchange, the, at Seville, 270 Excitement of spectators at a bull-fight, 71-73 Extortion at Spanish inns, 238, 239 Fan, the, universally used in Spain, 75, 76 Farmhouse hospitality, 241 _Fire_ sold at Madrid, 81 Florinda's Bath at Toledo, 137, 138 Fonda San Estaban at Bayonne, 12; at Castile, 28; de la Amistad at Madrid, 58; del Caballero at Toledo, 116, 117 Fountain with statue of our Saviour at Burgos, 29; at Madrid, 80-97; of Lions, Alhambra, 186-188 Francisco, Calle San, 277 Frescoes at Angoulême, 4 Furniture of Spanish houses, 88 Galera, the Spanish, 49 Galiana's Palace at Toledo, 134, 135 Garbanzo, the, 19 Gaspacho, or cold garlic soup, 216, 217, 241 Gateway at Cordova, 276 Gatien, St., at Tours, 3 Generalife, the, near the Alhambra, 189 Gibraltar, 291-295 Gitanos and Gitanas at Granada, 193, 194; at Seville, 265 Gomeles, Calle de los, at Granada, 169 Goya, Francisco, his works and life, 95-102 Granada, 164-207; Fonda del Comercio, 164; Louis the cicerone, 164, 165; the Calle de Parragas, 165; view of the Alhambra, 166; the Darro, 166; general aspect of Granada, 167; the inhabitants, 167, 168; picturesque costumes of the peasantry, 169; the Spanish tailor, 170; the Alameda, 171; the Xenil, 171; Tertulias, 173; the Zacatin, 177; the Alhambra, 177-192; the Gitanos and Gitanas, 192, 193; Monte Sagrado, the Carthusian convent, 194, 195; Monastery of San Juan de Dios, 195, 196; Convent of San Geronimo, 196; Convent of San Domingo, 196, 197; baths of Granada, 197, 198; Society at Granada, 198-201; ascent of the Mulhacen, 201-207 Gregorian and Mozarabic rituals, 126, 127 Guadarrama, 57 Guadalquivir, the, 160, 257, 262, 274-276 Guevara, dramatic author, 232 Guilhen de Castro, dramatic author, 233 Guzman, Antonio, the actor, 91 Hall of Ambassadors, in the Alhambra, 181-183; of the two Sisters, 185 Harvest and harvest carts, 150 Heat of the weather at Madrid, 89; at Toledo, 117; at Ocaña, 149 Heaths near Valladolid, 53