Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
All this flies along with the speed
of lightning in the midst of a whirlwind of cries and dust. There
are also carriages with four or five mules. Nothing equal to them
can be found now-a-days, anywhere save in the pictures of Van der
Meulen, which represent the conquests and hunting exploits of Louis
XIV.
Every vehicle in the town is laid under contribution, for it is
accounted the height of fashion by the _manolas_, who are the
grisettes of Madrid, to proceed in a _calesin_ to the _Plaza de
Toros_: they pawn even their mattresses to obtain money on the
day of a bull-fight, and without being exactly virtuous the rest
of the week, they are most decidedly much less so on Sunday and
Monday. You also see country people who have come to town on
horseback, with their carbine suspended at the bow of their saddle;
others, again, either alone or with their wives, are mounted on
asses. Besides all these persons, there are the carriages of
the fashionable world, and a whole host of honest citizens and
señoras in mantles on foot, who quicken their pace on perceiving
the mounted National Guard, headed by their trumpeters, advancing
to clear the arena. For nothing in the world would any one miss
seeing the clearing of the arena, and the precipitate flight of the
alguazil after he has thrown to the helper the key of the _toril_,
where the horned gladiators are confined. The _toril_ is situated
opposite the _matadero_, in which place they flay the animals
that have been killed. The bulls are driven, the night before the
fight, to a meadow called _el arroyo_, near Madrid. This meadow
is a favourite walk with the _aficionados_; but it is one, by the
way, not wholly free from danger, for the bulls are at liberty,
and their drivers find it rather a difficult task to keep them in
order. Lastly, the bulls are conducted into the _encierro_ (stable
attached to the circus) by the aid of old bulls used to the office,
and scattered among the herd of their wild brethren.
The _Plaza de Toros_ is situated on the left-hand side of the road,
beyond the Puerta d'Alcala (which, I may mention in a parenthesis,
is a fine structure, resembling a triumphal arch, with trophies and
other heroic ornaments); it is an enormous circus, with whitewashed
walls, presenting no remarkable feature on the outside. As all
the tickets are taken beforehand, the audience enter without the
least confusion, and every one clambers to his place, and sits down
according to the particular number of his ticket.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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