Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The word _matador_ is scarcely ever employed in Spain to designate
the person who kills the bull; he is entitled _espada_ (sword),
which is more noble and more characteristic. Neither is the word
_toreador_ used, but _torero_. I just mention this as a piece
of useful information for those authors who are accustomed to
introduce a little local colouring into their ballads and comic
operas. The fight is called _media corrida_, half-course or fight,
because formerly there used to be two every Monday, one in the
morning and one at five in the afternoon, the two together making
up the day's amusement. At present only the fight in the afternoon
is preserved.
It has been asserted and reasserted on all sides, that the
Spaniards are losing their taste for bull-fights, and that
civilization will soon cause the amusement to be discontinued
altogether. If civilization does effect this, all I can say is that
it will be all the worse for civilization, as a bull-fight is one
of the grandest sights that the imagination of man can conceive;
but, at any rate, the time for their abolition has not yet arrived,
and those sensitive writers who affirm the contrary have only
to transport themselves some Monday, between the hours of four
and five, to the Puerta d'Alcala, in order to be convinced that
the taste for this _ferocious_ pastime is, as yet, very far from
extinct.
Monday, which is the bull-day, _dia de toros_, is a holiday. No one
does any work, and the whole town is in commotion. Those persons
who have not previously bought their tickets, hasten off towards
the _Calle de Carretas_, where the ticket-office is situated, in
the hope of finding some place still vacant, for the enormous
amphitheatre is all numbered and portioned into stalls, a plan
which cannot be praised too highly, and which might be imitated
with advantage in the French theatres. The _Calle d'Alcala_, the
artery into which all the populous streets of the city flow, is
filled with foot-passengers, horse-men, and vehicles. To grace this
solemnity, the most strange and extravagant _calesins_ and cars
emerge from their dusty retreats, while the most fantastic horses,
and the most phenomenal mules come forth into the light of day. The
_calesins_ reminded me of the Neapolitan corricoli. They have large
red wheels and no springs, the body being decorated with paintings
more or less allegorical, and lined with old damask silk or faded
serge with long silk fringe. Altogether, they produce a most absurd
_rococo_ effect. The driver sits upon the shaft; this enables
him to harangue and belabour his mule just as he thinks fit, and
also makes one place more for his customers. The mule is tricked
out with as many feathers, rosettes, tufts, bells, and as much
fringe as it is possible to fasten to the harness of any quadruped
in existence. A _calesin_ generally contains a _manola_, and a
female friend as well as her _manolo_, not to mention a bunch of
_muchachos_ hanging on behind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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