Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The seats destined for the use of the public are situated
immediately beyond the second barrier. Those near the ropes are
called _plazas de barrera_, those in the middle _tendidos_,
while those next to the first tier of the _grada cubierta_ are
distinguished by the appellation of _tabloncillos_. All these
rows, which remind you of the seats in the Roman amphitheatres,
are composed of bluish granite, and have no covering but the
canopy of heaven. Immediately behind them are the covered places,
_gradas cubiertas_, which are divided into _delantera_, first
seats; _centro_, middle seats; and _tabloncillo_, seats with
backs. Above these are the boxes, called _palcos_ and _palcos por
asientos_. They are a hundred and twenty in number, very spacious,
and capable of containing twenty persons each. The difference
between the _palco por asientos_ and the simple _palco_ is, that in
the former you can take a single place as you can a balcony-stall
at the opera. The boxes of the _Reina Gobernadora y de la
Innocente Isabel_ are decorated with silk hangings and closed by
curtains. Next to them is the box of the _ayuntamiento_ (municipal
authorities), who preside over the sports, and whose duty it is to
settle any dispute that may arise.
The circus, thus arranged, contains twelve thousand spectators,
all seated at their ease, and enjoying a clear view of everything
going forward,--a most indispensable condition in an amusement that
is purely ocular. The immense building is always full; and those
who are unable to procure _plazas de sombra_ (places in the shade)
prefer being broiled alive in the uncovered seats, to missing one
fight. It is considered as indispensable by those persons who pride
themselves on their gentility to have a box at the bull-fights in
Madrid, as it is by Parisians of fashion to possess one at the
Italian Opera.
On issuing from the outward corridor to proceed to my place, I was
seized with a sort of sudden giddiness. The circus was bathed in
torrents of light, for the sun is a chandelier of a very superior
description, which possesses the advantage of not spilling the
oil upon those beneath, and which not even gas will supersede for
some time to come. An immense humming floated like a fog of noise
over the arena. On the sunny side of the building palpitated and
glistened thousands of fans and little round parasols with handles
made of reed. They looked like flocks of birds, of ever-varying
hues attempting to fly. There was not one place empty. I can
assure the reader that it is in itself a grand sight to see twelve
thousand people assembled in a theatre of such a size, that heaven
alone is capable of painting the ceiling with the blue which it
procures from the palette of eternity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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