Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Whenever Madrid is mentioned, the first objects that the word
suggests to our minds are the Prado and La Puerta del Sol. Since
then our inclination leads us to do so, let us now proceed to
the Prado, as it is the hour of the evening promenade. The Prado
consists of a number of alleys and cross-alleys, with a road in
the middle for carriages. It is shaded by stunted pollards, whose
roots are in connexion with a little basin lined with brick,
into which the water is conveyed by small canals at the hours
appointed for watering; without this precaution the trees would
soon be devoured by the dust, and shrivelled up by the sun. The
promenade commences at the Convent d'Atocha, passing by the gate
of that name, as well as by the Puerta d'Alcala, and terminating
at the gate of the Franciscan Friars. The fashionable world,
however, frequents only the space bounded by the fountain of
Cybele and the fountain of Neptune, from the Puerta d'Alcala to
the Carrera de San Jeronimo. Within this space there is a large
plot of ground called the _saloon_, surrounded by chairs, like the
principal walk in the gardens of the Tuileries. Near the _saloon_
there is a cross-walk which bears the name of _Paris_. It is the
Boulevard de Gand of Madrid, and the rendezvous of the fashionable
world. The fashionable world, however, is not, as a general rule,
particularly distinguished by a taste for the picturesque, and in
this instance it has selected the most dusty, the least shady,
and the least convenient part of the whole promenade. The crowd
is so great in this narrow space, confined between the _saloon_
and the carriage-way, that you frequently find it a difficult task
to put your hand into your pocket and take out your handkerchief.
You must "lock up" and follow the stream as you would in the
_tail_ at the doors of a theatre (that is to say, as you would
have done when there were _tails_ at the doors of a theatre).
The only possible reason there could have been for choosing this
spot, is that you can see and salute the persons who are passing
in their carriages (it always looks well for a foot-passenger to
salute a carriage). The equipages are not very brilliant. Most
of them are drawn by mules, whose long, blackish coat, large
belly, and pointed ears, produce a most ungraceful effect; they
resemble the mourning coaches which follow a hearse. The carriage
of the queen herself has but a very simple and tradesman-like
appearance. Any Englishman, with the slightest pretensions to being
considered a millionaire, would most certainly look down upon it
with contempt; there are, doubtless, some exceptions, but they are
rare. The splendid Andalusian horses, however, on which the young
fashionables of Madrid prance about, are charming. It is impossible
to behold anything more elegant, more noble, and more graceful
than an Andalusian stallion, with its plaited mane, long, thick
tail reaching to the ground, trappings ornamented with red tufts,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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