Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
There is a trade at Madrid of which no one in Paris has an idea.
I allude to the retailing of water. The stock in trade of the
water-seller consists of a _cantaro_ of white clay, a small reed or
tin basket, containing two or three glasses, a few _azucarillos_
(sticks of porous caramel sugar), and sometimes a couple of
oranges or limes. There is one class of water-sellers, who have
little casks twined round with green branches, which they carry
on their back. Some of them even go so far--along the Prado, for
instance--as to exhibit painted counters, surmounted by little
brass figures of Fame, and small flags, not a whit inferior in
magnificence to the displays made by the _marchands de coco_ in
Paris. These same water-sellers are generally young _muchachos_
from Gallicia, and are clad in a snuff-coloured cloth jacket,
breeches, black gaiters, and a peaked hat. There are also some who
are natives of Valencia, with their white linen drawers, their
piece of stuff thrown over their shoulder, their legs bronzed by
the sun, and their _alpargatas_ bordered with blue. There are also
a few women and little girls, whose costumes present nothing worthy
of notice, that sell water. They are called, according to their
sex, _aguadores_ or _aguadoras_. In all quarters of the city do you
hear their shrill cries, pitched in all sorts of keys, and varied
in a hundred thousand manners: _Agua, agua, quien quiere agua?
Agua helada, fresquita como la nieve!_ This lasts from five in the
morning till ten in the evening, and has inspired Breton de los
Herreros, a favourite author of Madrid, with the idea of a song,
entitled _l'Aguadora_, which has been very popular all through
Spain. This thirst of the population of Madrid is certainly a most
extraordinary thing; all the water in the fountains, and all the
snow of the mountains of Guadarrama, are insufficient to allay it.
People have joked a great deal about the poor Manzanares, and its
Naïad with her dry urn, but I should just like to see what sort
of a figure any other river would cut in a town parched up by the
same thirst. The Manzanares is drunk up at its very source; the
aguadores anxiously lie in wait for the least drop of water, the
slightest appearance of humidity which oozes forth between its
dry banks, and carry it off in their _cantaros_ and casks; the
laundresses wash the linen with sand, and, in the very middle of
the bed of the river, a Mahommedan would not find sufficient water
to enable him to perform his ablutions. The reader may, perhaps,
recollect a delicious _feuilleton_, in which Méry describes the
thirst of Marseilles. Exaggerate this six times, and you will have
but a slight idea of the thirst of Madrid. The price of a glass
of water is a _cuarto_ (about a farthing). What Madrid most stands
in need of, after water, is fire, wherewith to light its cigars;
consequently, the cry, _Fuego, fuego_, is heard in every direction,
mingled incessantly with that of _agua, agua_. There is a desperate
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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