Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
The mediaeval character of the buildings survives to an unexpected
extent in many of the narrow streets. A small canalised stream, the
Ill, encloses the centre of the town, and the gabled houses which
cluster on the water’s edge, sadly insanitary though they must be, are
wholly satisfying to the eye. May health experts and social reformers
long be kept at bay from the old quarters of Strasbourg! The type of
house which lends unique character to the city has a deep-pitched
slanting roof broken by small dormer windows. The red tiles, flecked
with green, have been mellowed by age into a subdued colour of great
beauty. The houses, with wide lattice windows, are often decorated
with wood carvings, sometimes old, often restored. The gables which
lend so much character to this class of architecture are treated with
considerable freedom and variety; the crow’s-foot gable introduced by
the Dutch to South Africa is not uncommon here. The beautiful colour
of the tiles which glow and shimmer in the sunshine is like a warm and
rosy cloak flung over the town. Flowers not infrequently decorate the
broad window ledges, and give life and colour to the narrow streets
and passages. Striking indeed is the framework of such a house for
an Alsatian woman wearing the national headdress with its voluminous
black bows, when she appears at the window to tend her geraniums and
marguerites, or to pass the time of day with neighbours in the street
below.
The influence of mediaeval Germany on the old streets and buildings of
Strasbourg can be seen at a glance. Superimposed on this foundation
is a town essentially French in character and architecture.
Eighteenth-century France has left behind it the type of high French
house, elegant and well-proportioned, characteristic of a period at
once correct and dignified. It is curious to notice how Strasbourg and
Metz adopted a similar attitude to the architectural improvements of
the conqueror. The spirit of both cities is identical in this respect.
Like Metz, pre-1870, Strasbourg keeps itself to itself, aloof and
reserved, within the confines of the surrounding Ill. On the further
banks, the modern German buildings encircle the old kernel with all
the material comfort and ugliness of the latter-day German town.
The solid reinforced-concrete houses, the large public buildings,
the wide streets and squares breathe a spirit from which the older
Strasbourg seems to remove the hem of her garment with fastidious
contempt--“What mean ye by these stones?”--and it is not fantastic to
read the moral and political struggles of this oft-disputed city of the
marches in the vivid contrasts of its architecture. Between mediaeval
and seventeenth-century Strasbourg there is no strife. But pre-1870
Strasbourg, humiliated, aristocratic, reveals a passionate antagonism
towards the conquering parvenu to whom the city owes its present
material prosperity. The Kaiser’s palace, a building, monotonous and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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