Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
With the great astronomical clock, beloved of sightseers, I was frankly
a little bored. The cathedral is carefully closed at 11.30, so that
you are forced to pay for a ticket to come in at 12 o’clock when the
twelve apostles and the cock perform. A series of little figures creak
in and out, while two rather aggressive Suisses shout explanations
and thrust picture-postcards on the spectators. More satisfactory is
the museum, where a small collection of pictures, admirable for a
provincial town, can be visited. A delightful park called the Orangerie
ministers to those social amenities of life the secret of which is
so much better understood on the Continent than in Great Britain.
The numerous cafés and beer gardens of the continental town make the
partaking of food and drink--especially of drink--a simple respectable
affair, wholly robbed of the vicious and degrading associations which
invest the liquor trade at home.
The crowds gathered in the cafés on a Sunday afternoon gave us a good
opportunity of studying the men and women of Strasbourg. I had the
impression of a mixed type special to itself and largely independent
of its parent stocks. It is wholly different from that of the tall
blond men and women we see in Cologne. Neither is it entirely French.
The Alsatians tend to be dark and short, somewhat solid too in build,
though the unmistakable elegance of French clothes lends a frequent
touch of distinction to passers-by in the streets. Such elegance is
unknown in Germany proper. Appalling too in its confusion of tongues
is the language spoken: a bastard jumble of French and German which
has ceased to have any resemblance to either. You speak in French,
the people reply in German; you try German, only to be countered in
the vilest of patois. In the end I fell back on English as the least
unintelligible of the three languages. As regards the difficult
bilingual question, I do not know on what ultimate policy the French
have decided. For the moment both French and German names appear in
the streets, and public places such as the railway station. It is
to be hoped there will be no departure from this policy. Suppress a
language, and it flourishes with that zest and vigour derived from
persecution alone. The Germans, being stupid people, never learnt this
lesson either in Poland or Alsace-Lorraine. The French, as a really
intelligent race, are in a better position to avoid what is at all
times a gross mistake. The lessons of history are usually disregarded,
and it would appear that politicians as a body are singularly inept as
regards the application of past precedents to present events. Yet the
great moral of the pacification of South Africa and the principles it
illustrates is one on which Europe in its present chaos would do well
to reflect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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