Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
Lorraine is a smiling land with rolling plains and hills. Villages,
solid and well-built, lie among their orchards in the folds of
the undulating fields. Important though the mineral wealth of the
province, agriculture plays a part hardly second in value as regards
its resources. The rich red soil is highly cultivated, and farming is
carried on with the thoroughness one associates, alas, with continental
methods alone. The red-tiled roofs of the farmhouses lend a sense
of warmth and colour to the landscape. Especially beautiful is the
contrast when the warm madder-coloured gables rise out of a foam of
fruit blossom. Truly a land to win and to hold the affections of its
children. To see it for the first time, no longer under alien rule but
liberated and restored to the Motherland, was a glad experience of
travel. Indefensible though the German rape of the protesting provinces
in 1870, the case of Lorraine, predominantly and overwhelmingly French
in population and sentiment, was perhaps the greater outrage. A people
annexed against their will are not easy citizens to handle, as for
over forty years French resistance passive and active taught Prussian
officialism.
Thiers fought desperately for the retention of Metz in the peace
negotiations following on the 1870 war. Bismarck, whose ends were
attained by the war itself, was not implacable on the subject.
Personally he favoured the payment of a larger indemnity in lieu of
the city. Military opinion was violently hostile to this proposal, and
with cynical indifference the Chancellor let the soldiers have their
way. To visit Metz in 1920 is to realise how the soul of the city
kept itself free and aloof, heavy though the material yoke imposed
on it. The town is French in every respect. The Germans have added
solid public buildings of practical value in the shape of an excellent
railway station, post office, banks, etc. As a material proposition,
Metz returns to France much richer than when torn away. But the purely
French character of the streets and houses defied all efforts of the
conqueror at any true absorption within the German Reich. The new
buildings lie, like scorned and wealthy parvenus, on the outskirts.
Within are narrow streets, tall houses and shuttered windows--all
the indefinable genre and elegance which French taste and French
architecture bring with them. When the hour of liberation came, Metz
reverted to her natural allegiance with as little difficulty as a
prisoner casts off some hated garment of servitude.
Sign painters must have driven a brisk trade after the Armistice. Not
only have all the names of the streets become French again, but the
names of shops have undergone a similar transformation. So hastily
has the work been done in many cases that the half-obliterated German
letters may be seen under the new paint. Business was clearly urgent
in those early days and the transfer of names to the winning side
permitted of no delay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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