Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
This monument, a striking example of its class, is executed with a full
measure of French skill and artistic power. But there cannot be the
least misunderstanding as to its meaning. Every line breathes revenge
and a day of reckoning to come. Mars-la-Tour was occupied by the
Germans in the first days of the recent war. It must, I think, be put
to the credit of the military authorities that, during the four and a
half years that this memorial was in their power, no damage of any kind
was done to it.
Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour are both dirty ramshackle villages, with
middens out in the street blocking the entrance to the houses. Perhaps
the inhabitants of frontier villages are inspired by a justifiable
pessimism as to the futility of building decent dwelling-houses.
Certainly the standard of life seems unusually low. Shortly after
leaving Mars-la-Tour we began to pick up occasional signs of war, signs
which, of course, multiplied as we entered the plain of the Woevre,
and began to draw near the ridge of hills to the west on the far side
of which Verdun lies. One battlefield is painfully like another. The
destroyed villages and desolate fields told the same tale of death and
suffering which is impressed on the long belt of devastation running
across the Continent. Yet to me in future a cowslip field will always
bring with it memories of Verdun. The familiar yellow flowers were
growing in sheets by the roadside, striving, as it were, pathetically
to throw the cover of their freshness and grace across the stricken
land.
The interest of Verdun, apart from its heroic defence, lies in the fact
that the line of attack being very intensive was relatively small,
and owing to the hilly and varied nature of the ground it is possible
to visualise more or less accurately the various attacks and counter
attacks. We approached Verdun from the south-west, a point from which
the damage was relatively small. The whole of the Verdun ridge on which
the forts are situated runs north and south, and commands the plain of
the Woevre to the east and the valley of the Meuse to the west. All
this district was formerly a great forest. On the southern slopes we
found the trees practically intact. We turned to the right and, keeping
along the top of the ridge, had our first view of the valley of the
Meuse, and Verdun with its twin towers lying far below us in the plain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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