Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Built like most adobe pueblos, Indian and Mexican, about a straggling
square, this little village furnished a good vantage for Americans
to see and to be observed,--watched with quiet hostility by idling
natives. Cross-currents of ill feeling we sensed intangibly; not only
did the village as a whole bristle toward us, but it contained two
sects of flagellants, and two morados, whose families were fiercely
partisan; and in addition these were opposed by the native element of
strict Catholics who, obeying the mandates of the Church, frowned on
the fanatic religionists. We were warned not to take pictures nor show
our cameras, nor to follow the procession too closely. Our presence was
barely tolerated, and our innocent attempts to become an inconspicuous
part of the landscape met with scowls and uncomplimentary remarks.
Perhaps they were justified; the desire to guard one’s religious rites
from curious eyes is a high instinct, which, no matter how effacingly
we “hunted penitentes,” we were violating.
The saints in the whitewashed church had been dressed for the occasion
in new ribbons and laces. On a low wheeled platform stood a crudely
painted figure of Christ, his eyes bandaged with the pathetic purpose
of saving him from the sight of the agony to come to his followers.
With him were other figures; one I think was Judas, with his bag of
silver and mean grimace. Soon from the morado came a short procession
of men and boys, weak-kneed and trembling, clad only in cotton drawers
and shirts which speedily became ensanguined from wounds made by hidden
thorns. They walked with a peculiar swaying motion, as if their knees
were broken. Three of them, no more than boys, bore great crosses of
foot-square timber, about twenty feet long. The heavy ends dragged on
the ground; the cross beams rested on bent backs, on which, the whisper
went, were bound the spiky cactus whose every curved needle pressing
on the flesh spells torture. Blood ran down their shaky legs, joining
blood already crusted. Their faces were hooded.
A band of flagellants followed who as yet played a less active part.
At wide intervals over the scorching desert were planted the fourteen
stations of the cross, to which the three principals, barefooted,
dragged their burdens. At each they rested while the drama of that
station was enacted as crudely and literally as an early mystery
play. A middle-aged penitente in store clothes, fiercely in earnest,
read appropriate passages from the Mexican Bible, stumbling over the
pronunciation. Then the procession chanted responses, and the brief
respite, if respite it was for the cross-bearers, came to an end. At
the proper station, three little black-robed Marys broke from the
crowd, and played their tragic part.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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