Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
During the dance the fat and impudent _koshari_ honored me with a
command,--“You take me and my chum for a ride?” Fat and very naked,
covered with melting grease paint, and ferocious in horns and tail, he
was not the sort of companion I would have chosen for a motor drive,
but a refusal might have prompted him to expel us from the village.
On a fête day, the lightest word of a _koshari_ is law. He clambered
in, and moved over to make room for his chum, a loathsome and mangy
old fellow, with rheumy, sightless eyes, whose proximity filled me
with disgust. Tottering with age and excitement, his first move was
to clutch the steering wheel, and when I had disengaged his claws, he
grasped the lever with an iron grip. Meanwhile, thirteen brown babies,
some of whom had been bathed as recently as last year, climbed into the
tonneau. We whirled around and around the plaza, the children shouting,
dogs barking, the fat _koshari_ bowing like visiting royalty to the
cheering spectators, uttering shrieks in my ear to take me off guard,
kicking his heels in the air, or sliding to the floor as a too-daring
visitor tried to snap his picture, while _koshari_ senior occasionally
seized the levers and threw us into reverse, nearly stripping the gears.
A curious people! Childishly admiring of the white man’s automobiles,
radium watches and canned foods, and gravely contemptuous of his
civilized codes, morals and spiritual insight; unsanitary in daily
life, yet with rituals of hospital cleanliness; believing in charms and
“medicine,” yet with a knowledge of herbs, and mental therapy beyond
our own; introducing buffoonery into their religious services, yet with
a reverence for religion uncomprehended by the white man; unable to
persuade the government to give him citizen rights,--but easily able to
persuade the Lord to send him rain! For, two days after the dance, rain
came in abundance in sheets, torrents and cataracts, after a drought
which had lasted months. The Hopi snake dance they say never fails to
bring rain. Other rain dances about Santa Fé have the same result. Is
it coincidence,--or has the Indian a weather sense beyond ours;--or
does he look the Deity more squarely and unflinchingly in the eye when
he makes his demands? Jacob wrestled with his angel. The Indian _knows_
his prayers will bring rain. And however obtained, his percentage of
correct answers seems higher than the white man’s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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