Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
[Illustration: PUEBLO WOMEN GRINDING CORN IN METATE BINS. The women are
the millers who grind the varied colored corn in lava bins.]
[Illustration: PUEBLO WOMAN WRAPPING DEER-SKIN LEGGINS. A lady’s social
prominence is gauged by the thickness of doeskin wrappers she displays.]
Laguna, built on a solid ledge of mother rock, attracts attention
by the notched beauty of its skyline. It is entertainingly terraced
on irregular streets, forced to conform to the shape of its rock
foundation. A ramble about town brings unexpected vistas. You start on
what seems to be the street, trail along after a shock haired little
savage in unbuttoned frock, and suddenly find yourself in a barnyard,
gazing with a flea bitten burro upon the intimacies of Pueblo family
life on the roof of the house next door. Through the village come
sounds of the leisurely tasks of the evening. The mellow, throaty boom
of the tombé, and syncopated rhythm of the corn-grinding song come from
the open doors, framed in the warm glow of firelight. A dead coyote,
waiting to be dressed, hangs by the tail from a _vega_. Children play
in the streets. The shifting hills of shimmering sand, moonlight silver
in the frosted air of morning, and golden at noon, turn from rose to
violet. Above the village rise pencilled lines of smoke from ancient
fireplaces. Towering above everything stands the white mass of the old
mission, with a gleaming cross of gold cutting sharply against the
glory of the west.
Laguna owns no hotel, so Toby and I sought out the missionary, whose
ruddy, white-haired countenance and stalwart frame bespoke his Vermont
origin, and whose hospitality bore the hearty flavor of Green Mountain
farmhouses. At something less than what is called a pittance, he had
worked for years among the Indians of the pueblo, and at the nearby
tubercular sanitarium for government Indians. He seemed to feel no
superiority over his charges, and showed none of the complacent
cant and proselyting zeal which distinguishes too many reservation
missionaries. He had retained with delightful fidelity the spirit
of the small community pastor working on terms of equality with his
flock,--raising the mortgage, furnishing the church parlor, encouraging
the Sewing Circle exactly as he would have done back in Vermont. As
he told us of his work the yellow waste and glaring sunshine, squat
’dobe houses and alien brown figures faded, and we seemed to see a
white spire with gilded weathervane, and cottages with green blinds;
we smelled lilacs and ginger cookies, and walked in a lane of flaming
maples.
“The work is slow here,” he said. “One needs patience. Yet looking back
over the years results are gratifying. Gratifying. Souls who walked
in darkness have been won to Christ. Only last night, I attended the
bedside of a dear sister,--the oldest person I believe in the state.
Her years number one hundred and twenty-six. She confessed her faith
and will die in Christ.”
“Have you had many conversions?” we asked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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