Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
“Look,” said somebody, pointing. Mr. Wetherell smiled. To our right,
sheltering us with its six hundred feet of red wall rose a cliff,
curved half-way up like an inverted bowl, and blackened with streaks
where water had once run. The same water had carved the bowl, and had
it worked awhile longer it would have bored through the cliff and made
a natural bridge. As it was, it formed a simple but perfect shelter for
a large cliff city, so completely the color of the cliff that but for
the black window holes, we should never have found them for ourselves.
With all the joy of discoverers we speedily climbed the precipitous
bank to the narrow shelf on which the ancient city was built. Strung
together on their precarious ledge like beads on a necklace were rows
of rooms, compared to which a kitchenette in a New York apartment would
be spacious. Above them were second and third stories, the ceilings
long ago fallen, and only a few decayed piñon _vegas_ to show where
they had been. On one building the tumbled masonry exposed a framework
of willow wattles. A thousand years before, perhaps, some Indian had
cut the saplings fresh from the brook where we had just bathed. The
great stone slabs of the altars and the cedar beams must have been
dragged up from below,--a stupendous work of patient human ants. In
the fine, crumbly floor dust, we found innumerable bits of pottery,
painted in the early red, black and white, and fragments of the still
earlier thumb-nail. Toby tirelessly collected armfuls of them, and tied
them in bandana handkerchiefs. The place had hardly been excavated.
We pawed the dust, each believing we might discover some souvenir the
Smithsonian would envy us, and ethnologists refer to wistfully in their
reports, yet somehow, we did not. But many interesting things came to
light, feathers twisted together into ropes, obsidian arrow-heads,
sticks notched by a stone adze, grinding stones such as the Hopis use
today, and the altar stones found in each apartment. No wonder their
builders worshipped, living so near Heaven.
These ruins, called Beta-Takin, or “Hillside House” were well named.
Above was only the deep blue sky, framed in the smooth red arch that
roofed these swallows’ nests. Below were steep slopes of crumbling
sandstone, the glowing flowers near the river, and beyond, castellated
peaks of bold outline. I climbed with caution to the furthest tip of
the crescent town, and my traitor knees began to crumple like paper. I
had suddenly begun to wonder, at the wrong moment, whether any cliff
dwelling babies had ever fallen over that edge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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