Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
That, as nearly as I can spell it, is the only Navajo any of us managed
to learn. Mr. Wetherell so frequently addressed Hostein this way that
we thought it was his name, and called him by it, even after we learned
that it meant “Light a fire.” The little jest always brought a silent
smile to the face of the Navajo, and he would mimic our mimicry. We
christened an unnamed canyon for him De-jiss-je Boco, where we lunched
at noon, and cached part of the pack till the return trip. Here was a
delicious stream, running between sandstone rocks, into which horses
and all put our heads and drank. The sun steamed upon the land of
rocks until the heat made us droop, and our horses, poor beasts, were
rapidly wearing down from the trail. Only piñons, with hardy roots
gripping the red wastes of rock, and thorny cactus, grew in this vast
echo-land. Rocks! I could not have believed there were so many in
the universe. It looked like the Pit out of which the gods had taken
material to build the world, or the abyss where they threw the remnants
afterward.
For the first time we saw purple sage, whose scent is indescribably
sweet. This rare variety is found only in this region. Its leaf is dark
green and differently shaped from ordinary sage. We were nearing great
Navajo, whose bare stark head topped all other hills from Mt. Henry in
Utah to the San Francisco peaks in the south. Soon we were in the lee
of it, climbing beside it, but closer and closer to its heights.
De-jiss-je looked at the cloudless sky, and suggested it might rain.
To my surprise the others agreed. The sky was velvet blue and the air
as dry and sparkling as ever. Yet we had hardly rounded the shoulder
of Navajo when thick, broken clouds shrouded it in terrible grandeur,
and the wind swirled them against that rocky mass. The storm broke
immediately in wildest fury, and we saw the giant in its proper
surroundings, storm wrapped and terrible. I never saw a more majestic
storm in more titanic setting. Low waves of prairie, stretching for
miles, were broken here and there into strange monoliths and grotesque
needles, around which the lightning played sharp and short as a whip
snapping,--rose-colored, deep green. The sky turned purple-blue, cut
and slashed by gashes of blinding white. Grayed by sheets of rain,
the red rocks took on a sulphurous look. Far off to our right a rainbow
canyon opened, almost as vast and quite as brilliant as the Grand
Canyon of Colorado, reaching to the horizon.
[Illustration: RAINBOW BRIDGE TRAIL. Near Navajo Mountain, whose bare,
stark head topped all other hills.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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