Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
“Get in and help,” said an old squaw to me. Accordingly I grasped a
rough horn, and discovered it took strength and some skill to keep
the animals from being trampled, as they went down the trough. Once
a tremendous chatter arose, as a result of the squaws counting their
sheep and finding one missing. The poor creature was discovered,
crushed and bleeding at the bottom of the runway. Immediately he was
fished out, and borne off by two women whom I followed to watch. One
held the carcass, while the other pulled from her woven belt a long,
glittering knife. In twenty minutes the sheep was skinned, dressed and
cut into neat chops and loins, and the incident was closed. The women
are sole owners and custodians of the sheep-herds. The gathering that
day would have rejoiced the heart of any feminist. With one old hag I
noticed a beautiful little Navajo child dressed in the usual velvet
jacket, flowing skirt and silver ornaments. Two lumps of turquoise were
strung in her ears. Her eyes, like her skin, were golden brown and her
hair bright yellow. Her unusual complexion added to her beauty made her
a pet of the entire village, and the idol of her old grandmother. If
she was an Albino, the lack of pigment took a more becoming form than
among the Hopis.
Mesa Verde National Park is only a short day’s run from Shiprock.
It took us into the edge of Colorado, a beautiful, loveable state,
endowed with sense, mountains, good roads and every kind of natural
blessing. It has a flavor all its own; more mellow than the states of
the West coast, less prim than those on its eastern borders. Our way
led between two mountain ranges, one in Utah, the other in Colorado,
with a long sweep of prairies curling like waves at their base. We
passed a corner of the Ute country, and saw at a spring a group of
those gaily dressed, rather sullen people, ample bodied and round
headed. Each tribe differs from the others, and these bore a look more
like the Northern tribes than those we had already met.
As the Colorado mountains came nearer, I remembered the words of a
fellow traveler, spoken on the slippery drive to Taos, New Mexico,
which had haunted me ever since.
“This is steep enough, but wait till you climb Mesa Verde. The engineer
cut a road straight up the mountain to the top, with as few switchbacks
and as little grading as he could. It is so narrow that you have to
telephone your arrival when you reach the base of the hill, and they
shut off all downward traffic till you report at the Park.”
We were both by this time inured to horizontal fever, and could steer
quite debonairly within an inch of a thousand foot drop, but we
“figured,” as they say out West, that we had about reached our limit,
and if we were to encounter anything more vertiginous, something
_might_ happen. I don’t say we dreaded Mesa Verde, but I will admit we
speculated over our prospects.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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