I for one, who rap on wood and walk around ladders, would have ridden a long way to avoid those powerful spirits. Yet some Indians boldly hunted and trapped in what was once a most happy hunting ground. The overland course of the buffalo lay through this Park, and wherever the buffalo was, the Indian was sure to follow. Yellowstone was the refuge of Chief Joseph, of the Nez Perces, in his resistance against Howard and United States troops. Everyone ought to see Yellowstone at least once. Nowhere else are so many extraordinary freaks in so convenient and beautiful a setting. The freaks leave you as bewildered as the Whatisit’s used to, in the sideshows of your youth. Before the last paint pot and boiling spring are investigated, the average tourist is in a state of bewildered resentment at Nature for putting it over on him so frequently. Besides, his feet ache, and he is stiff from climbing in and out that yellow bus. Everyone ought to see Yellowstone at least twice. The second time he will forget the freaks and geysers and busses running on schedule, and go if possible in his own car, with his own horse, or on his own feet. He will take his time on the Cody Trail, now I believe, a part of the Park but until recently outside its limits. Here he will see what is perhaps the most glorious natural scenery in Yellowstone, great pointed needles rising from gigantic cliffs, deep ravines, and endless forests, pretty little intervales and ideal camping and fishing nooks. Or further in, beyond Mt. Washburn and the Tower Falls where comparatively few go, he will find deep groves and gorgeous mountain scenery. Beyond Yellowstone Lake he can penetrate to the benign Tetons walling the Park to the southeast. He can take his own “grub” and horses, and lose sight of hotels and schedules for a month, if he likes. He is not required, as at Glacier, to hire a guide if he wishes to camp. Yellowstone’s chief charm to me is not so much its beauty nor its wonders as that it is, pre-eminently, the People’s Park. Founded the earliest of any national park, when outdoor life was more of a novelty than it is today, and far less organized a sport, it follows a _laisser aller_ course. And the people appreciate and make use of it. Whole families camp from one end to the other of the Park, using its open-air ovens to cook the fish which they catch in its lakes and streams. They know far more of its charm than the tourists who buy their five-day excursions from the railroads, and don’t move a hand to feed or convey themselves from the time they enter at Gardiner to the time they leave at Cody. [Illustration: CAMPING NEAR YELLOWSTONE PARK.]