Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Then climbing sixty or more perpendicular feet on an amateur ladder,
whose stoutness is its only reassuring feature, built by the discoverer
of the Bridge, Scotch old Dave Goodfellow, you reach the second floor,
devoted to one room apartments hollowed by drippings of age-old
streams, and slippery with crusted lime. The cliff is honeycombed with
caves in which stalactite and stalagmite meet, resembling twisted
cedar trunks. Wolves and coyotes have made their homes here, and even
somnolent grizzlies; in the smaller niches on warm spring days one has
to take care that one’s fingers do not grasp a twining mass of sluggish
rattlesnake. In one of these caves the human rattlesnake, Geronimo,
hid for a month in the Apache revolt of the nineties, while the United
States scouts scoured Arizona to find him, and a story and a half
above, the canny Goodfellow hid in his little one-room cabin, each
fearing discovery by the other.
Above this floor is a mezzanine with another nest of caverns. Three
sets of ladders riveted to a vertical shelf of rock lead you to the
most interesting cave of them all, where the fairy tale comes true of
the wizard who had to climb a mountain of glass. Toby knows no fear of
aerial heights, so I had to pretend not to. A grandnephew of the elder
Goodfellow led us where I hope never to return. We entered through
a hole just wide enough to admit our bodies, and barely high enough
to stand upright in. Then up a grade of 40 per cent over a limestone
surface glassy from age-long accumulations of dripping chemicals, we
wriggled flat on our backs, with feet braced against the ceiling
to prevent our slipping out of the cave. Only a bat could have felt
completely nonchalant under such circumstances. Harry Goodfellow
worked himself along swiftly and easily, with an extraordinary hitch,
hands and feet braced against the ceiling of the cave. After him, less
expertly, we came, using his ankles for ladder rungs, and clinging to
them frantically. How I prayed, not altruistically, that his ankles
were not weak! My imagination took the wrong moment to visualize his
grip failing, and his sudden descent out of the cave and over the
cliff, with Toby and me each frantically clinging to an ankle. However
we made the climb up safely, but going down was worse. I wonder why
human nature never remembers, when it climbs to dizzy heights, that the
go-down will be dizzier still.
I daresay I should yet be mid-way down that glass-bottomed cave, with
feet barnacled to its ceiling, had I not realized how uncomfortable
life would be spent in that position. Therefore I slid,--and jumped,
hoping the force of my descent would not bounce me out of the narrow
entrance into a clump of cactus sixty feet below. What happened to the
others at that moment I did not care.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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