Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Simple as was the incident, the flash of scarlet against the blue-black
sky, the dignity and silence of the Indian, made the climax we had been
awaiting. Nothing else happened. But it had been a night whose setting
was so sharply defined, its premonitions so vibrantly tense with drama,
that only that little was needed to carve it on our memory.
We saw the town later, in broad daylight, swept by an unclean
sand-storm, pitilessly stripped of romantic atmosphere. But the romance
was obscured, not obliterated, for its roots are sunk deep in the past.
Isleta has one of the finest built-up estufas of the pueblo towns.
It has a thousand inhabitants, whose proximity to the railroad gives
them the blessing or curse of the white man’s civilization. It has
a church, whose ancient adobe flanks have been topped by two wooden
bird-cages for steeples, for when the Indian adopts our ideas, his
taste is rococo; when he clings to his own art, he shows a native
dignity and simplicity. Lastly, Isleta has a ghost, well authenticated,
and attested to by a cardinal, an archbishop, a governor, and other
dignitaries, to say nothing of Juan Pancho, a man who does not lie. It
is probably the oldest ghost in the United States.
About the time of the first Spanish penetration into the Southwest, a
friar made his way to the Pueblo country through the hostile tribes to
the east. In one of the towns north of Santa Fé, probably Tesuque, he
found shelter and a home. The friendly Indians, although keeping him
half-prisoner, treated him kindly. He soon gained their respect and
affection, as he applied his knowledge of medicine to their physical,
and as a priest administered to their spiritual needs, without giving
offense to the Pueblos’ own beliefs. He seems to have been a gentle
and tactful creature, who won his way by the humane Christianity of
his daily life. Gradually, as they became better acquainted with
him, they admitted him to the inner circle of village life, even to
the sacred ceremonies and underground rituals of the kiva. He was
taught the significance of their medicine and of their tribal and
religious symbols. Almost forgetting his alien blood, they had made
him one of themselves on the day, twenty years later, when news came
of the approach of armed conquistadores, with Coronado at their head,
seeking plunder and the treasures of Cibola the legendary. Whether
such treasure existed has never been known. If it did, the secret was
closely guarded by the Indians. Perhaps the monk had been made their
confidant. At any rate, he knew enough to make certain factions in
the tribe regard him as an element of danger, when he should again
meet with men of his own race, hostile to the people of his adoption.
Would he remain true, thus tempted? It was a question of race against
individual loyalty, and one Indian, more fanatic and suspicious than
his brothers, cut the Gordian knot of the difficulty with a dagger,
planted squarely in the back of the God-fearing friar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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