What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the NileSpeke, John Hanning
History
What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the Nile
Speke, John Hanning
Horn of Africa -- Description and travel; Nile River; Tanganyika, Lake
I commenced the journey myself at 6 P.M., as soon as the two donkeys I
took with me to ride were caught and saddled. It was a dreary
beginning. The escort of Beluches who accompanied me had throughout
the former journeys been in great disgrace, and were in consequence
all sullen in their manner, and walked with heavy gait and downcast
countenances, looking very much as if they considered they had sold
themselves when striking such a heavy bargain with us, for they
evidently saw nothing before them but drudgery and a continuance of
past hardships. The nature of the track increased the general gloom;
it lay through fields of jowari (holcus) across the plain of
Unyanyembé. In the shadow of night, the stalks, awkwardly lying across
the path, tripped up the traveller at every step; and whilst his
hands, extended to the front, were grasping at darkness to preserve
his equilibrium, the heavy bowing ears, ripe and ready to drop, would
bang against his eyes. Further, the heavy sandy soil aided not a
little in ruffling the temper; but it was soon over, though all our
mortification did not here cease. The pagazis sent forward had
deposited their loads and retired home to indulge, it is suspected, in
those potations deep of the universal pombé (African small-beer) that
always precede a journey, hunt, or other adventure--without leaving a
word to explain the reason of their going, or even the time which they
purposed being absent.
10th July.--The absence of the pagazis caused a halt, for none of them
appeared again until after dark. The Beluches, gloomy, dejected,
discontented, and ever grumbling, form as disagreeable a party as it
was ever the unfortunate lot of any man to command.
11th.--We started on the journey northwards at 7 A.M., and, soon
clearing the cultivated plain, bade adieu to Unyanyembé. The track
passed down a broad valley with a gentle declination, which was full
of tall but slender forest-trees, and was lined on either side by low
hills. We passed one dry nullah, the Gombé, which drains the regions
westward into the Malagarazi river, some pools of water, and also two
Wasukuma caravans, one of ivory destined for the coast, and the other
conveying cattle to the Unyanyembé markets. Though the country through
which we passed was wild and uninhabited, we saw no game but a troop
of zebras, which were so wild that I could not get near them. After
walking fifteen miles, we arrived at the district of Ulékampuri, and
entered a village, where I took up my quarters in a negro's hut. My
servants and porters did the best they could by pigging with the
cattle, or lying in the shade under the eaves of the huts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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