What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the NileSpeke, John Hanning
History
What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the Nile
Speke, John Hanning
Horn of Africa -- Description and travel; Nile River; Tanganyika, Lake
27th.--At 6 A.M. we crawled through the opening in the palisading
which forms the entrances of these villages, and at once perceived a
tall, narrow pillar of granite, higher than Pompey's at Alexandria, or
Nelson's Monument in Charing Cross, towering above us, and having
sundry huge boulders of the same composition standing around its base,
much in the same peculiar way as we see at Stonehenge, on Salisbury
Plain. This scene strikes one with wonderment at the oddities of
nature, and taxes one's faculties to imagine how on earth the stones
ever became tilted up in this extraordinary position; but farther on,
about five miles distant, we encountered another and even higher
pillar, that quite overtopped the trees and everything about it. This
and the former one served as good station-marks for the journey, the
latter being visible at eight miles' distance. After the first eight
miles, which terminates the cultivated district of Salawé, the track
penetrated a waterless desert of thorn and small tree-forest, lying in
a broad valley between low hills. As the sick Beluch still occupied my
steadier donkey Ted, I was compelled to mount the half-broken
Jenny--so playful with her head and heels that neither the Sheikh nor
any other man dared sit upon her. The man's sickness appears to be one
of those eccentric complaints, the after-effects of African fevers: it
was attended with severe pain, and swelling extending over the
stomach, the right side, the right arm, and the right half of the
neck, depriving him of sleep and repose. In every position, whether
sitting, lying, standing, rising up, or sitting down, he complained of
aching muscles. I purchased a goat and sheep for the men for one dhoti
merikani.
28th.--Halt. This stoppage was for the restoration of wounded feet,
the pagazis' being all blistered by the last four long marches. I now
slaughtered and gave the two purchased animals to the men, as no one
grumbled at my refusing the last bullock, a recognised present for the
whole party, though nominally given to the Sahib. These people, like
the Arabs, and all those who have many wives, seem to find little
enjoyment in that domestic bliss so interesting and beautiful in our
English homes. Except on rare occasions, the husband never dines with
his wife and family, always preferring the exclusive society of his
own sex: even the boys, disdaining to dine with their mothers, mess
with the men; whilst the girls and women, having no other option, eat
a separate meal by themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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