Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
I directed my course towards the west, to the head of the valley. My
wife and daughter after walking with me about a mile bade me farewell,
and returned. Quickening my pace I soon left Llangollen valley behind me
and entered another vale, along which the road which I was following, and
which led to Corwen and other places, might be seen extending for miles.
Lumpy hills were close upon my left, the Dee running noisily between
steep banks, fringed with trees, was on my right; beyond it rose hills
which form part of the wall of the vale of Clwyd; their tops bare, but
their sides pleasantly coloured with yellow corn-fields and woods of dark
verdure. About an hour’s walking, from the time when I entered the
valley, brought me to a bridge over a gorge, down which water ran to the
Dee. I stopped and looked over the side of the bridge nearest to the
hill. A huge rock about forty feet long, by twenty broad, occupied the
entire bed of the gorge, just above the bridge, with the exception of a
little gullet to the right, down which between the rock and a high bank,
on which stood a cottage, a run of water purled and brawled. The rock
looked exactly like a huge whale lying on its side, with its back turned
towards the runnel. Above it was a glen with trees. After I had been
gazing a little time a man making his appearance at the door of the
cottage just beyond the bridge, I passed on, and drawing nigh to him,
after a slight salutation, asked him in English the name of the bridge.
“The name of the bridge, sir,” said the man, in very good English, “is
Pont y Pandy.”
“Does not that mean the bridge of the fulling mill?”
“I believe it does, sir,” said the man.
“Is there a fulling mill near?”
“No, sir, there was one some time ago, but it is now a sawing mill.”
Here a woman, coming out, looked at me steadfastly.
“Is that gentlewoman your wife?”
“She is no gentlewoman, sir, but she is my wife.”
“Of what religion are you?”
“We are Calvinistic Methodists, sir.”
“Have you been to chapel?”
“We are just returned, sir.”
Here the woman said something to her husband, which I did not hear, but
the purport of which I guessed from the following question which he
immediately put.
“Have you been to chapel, sir?”
“I do not go to chapel; I belong to the Church.”
“Have you been to church, sir?”
“I have not—I said my prayers at home, and then walked out.”
“It is not right to walk out on the Sabbath day, except to go to church
or chapel.”
“Who told you so?”
“The law of God, which says you shall keep holy the Sabbath day.”
“I am not keeping it unholy.”
“You are walking about, and in Wales when we see a person walking idly
about, on the Sabbath day, we are in the habit of saying Sabbath breaker;
where are you going?”
“The Son of Man walked through the fields on the Sabbath day, why should
I not walk along the roads?”
“He who called Himself the Son of Man was God, and could do what He
pleased, but you are not God.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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