Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
General
Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
I bade her farewell and pushed on—the road was good, with high rocky
banks on each side. After walking about the distance indicated by the
old lady, I reached a building, which stood on the right-hand side of the
road, and which I had no doubt was the chapel from a half-groaning,
half-singing noise, which proceeded from it. The door being open I
entered, and stood just within it, bare-headed. A rather singular scene
presented itself. Within a large dimly-lighted room a number of people
were assembled, partly seated in rude pews, and partly on benches.
Beneath a kind of altar, a few yards from the door, stood three men—the
middlemost was praying in Welsh in a singular kind of chant, with his
arms stretched out. I could distinguish the words, “Jesus descend among
us! sweet Jesus descend among us—quickly.” He spoke very slowly, and
towards the end of every sentence dropped his voice, so that what he said
was anything but distinct. As I stood within the door a man dressed in
coarse garments came up to me from the interior of the building, and
courteously and in excellent Welsh asked me to come with him and take a
seat. With equal courtesy but far inferior Welsh, I assured him that I
meant no harm, but wished to be permitted to remain near the door,
whereupon with a low bow he left me. When the man had concluded his
prayer the whole of the congregation began singing a hymn; many of the
voices were gruff and discordant, two or three, however, were of great
power, and some of the female ones of surprising sweetness—at the
conclusion of the hymn another of the three men by the altar began to
pray, just in the same manner as his comrade had done, and seemingly
using much the same words. When he had done there was another hymn,
after which seeing that the congregation was about to break up I bowed my
head towards the interior of the building, and departed.
Emerging from the hollow way I found myself on a moor over which the road
lay in the direction of the north. Towards the west at an immense
distance rose a range of stupendous hills, which I subsequently learned
were those of Snowdon—about ten minutes’ walking brought me to Cerrig y
Drudion, a small village near a rocky elevation, from which, no doubt,
the place takes its name, which interpreted, is the Rock of Heroes.
CHAPTER XXIV
Cerrig y Drudion—The Landlady—Doctor Jones—“Coll Gwynfa”—The Italian—Men
of Como—Disappointment—Weather-Glasses—Filicaia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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