Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
Then getting up she took a book from a shelf and handed it to me at the
same time begging me to enter the house and sit down. I declined and she
again took her seat and resumed her occupation. On opening the book the
first words which met my eye were “Gad i mi fyned trwy dy dir!” Let me
go through your country. Numbers XX. 22.
“I may say these words,” said I, pointing to the passage, “Let me go
through your country.”
“No one will hinder you, sir, for you seem a civil gentleman.”
“No one has hindered me hitherto. Wherever I have been in Wales I have
experienced nothing but kindness and hospitality, and when I return to my
own country I will say so.”
“What country is yours, sir?”
“England. Did you not know that by my tongue?”
“I did not, sir. I knew by your tongue that you were not from our
parts—but I did not know that you were an Englishman. I took you for a
Cumro of the south country.”
Returning the kind woman her book, and bidding her farewell I departed,
and proceeded some miles through a truly magnificent country of wood,
rock, and mountain. At length I came down to a steep mountain gorge down
which the road ran nearly due north, the Conway to the left running with
great noise parallel with the road, amongst broken rocks, which chafed it
into foam. I was now amidst stupendous hills, whose paps, peaks, and
pinnacles seemed to rise to the very heaven. An immense mountain on the
right side of the road particularly struck my attention, and on inquiring
of a man breaking stones by the roadside I learned that it was called
Dinas Mawr or the large citadel, perhaps from a fort having been built
upon it to defend the pass in the old British times. Coming to the
bottom of the pass I crossed over by an ancient bridge and passing
through a small town found myself in a beautiful valley with majestic
hills, on either side. This was the Dyffryn Conway, the celebrated Vale
of Conway, to which in the summer time fashionable gentry from all parts
of Britain resort for shade and relaxation. When about midway down the
valley I turned to the west up one of the grandest passes in the world,
having two immense door-posts of rock at the entrance, the northern one
probably rising to the altitude of nine hundred feet. On the southern
side of this pass near the entrance were neat dwellings for the
accommodation of visitors with cool apartments on the ground-floor with
large windows, looking towards the precipitous side of the mighty
northern hill; within them I observed tables, and books, and young men,
probably English collegians, seated at study.
After I had proceeded some way up the pass down which a small river ran,
a woman who was standing on the right-hand side of the way, seemingly on
the look-out, begged me in broken English to step aside and look at the
fall.
“You mean a waterfall, I suppose?” said I.
“Yes, sir.”
“And how do you call it?” said I.
“The Fall of the Swallow, sir.”
“And in Welsh?” said I.
“Rhaiadr y Wennol, sir.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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