Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
General
Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
Our first stage was to Caernarvon. As I subsequently made a journey to
Caernarvon on foot, I shall say nothing about the road till I give an
account of that expedition, save that it lies for the most part in the
neighbourhood of the sea. We reached Caernarvon, which is distant ten
miles from Bangor, about eleven o’clock, and put up at an inn to refresh
ourselves and the horses. It is a beautiful little town situated on the
southern side of the Menai Strait at nearly its western extremity. It is
called Caernarvon, because it is opposite Mona or Anglesey: Caernarvon
signifying the town or castle opposite Mona. Its principal feature is
its grand old castle, fronting the north, and partly surrounded by the
sea. This castle was built by Edward the First after the fall of his
brave adversary Llewelyn, and in it was born his son Edward whom, when an
infant, he induced the Welsh chieftains to accept as their prince without
seeing, by saying that the person whom he proposed to be their sovereign
was one who was not only born in Wales, but could not speak a word of the
English language. The town of Caernarvon, however, existed long before
Edward’s time, and was probably originally a Roman station. According to
Welsh tradition it was built by Maxen Wledig or Maxentius, in honour of
his wife Ellen, who was born in the neighbourhood. Maxentius, who was a
Briton by birth, and partly by origin, contested unsuccessfully the
purple with Gratian and Valentinian, and to support his claim led over to
the Continent an immense army of Britons, who never returned, but on the
fall of their leader settled down in that part of Gaul generally termed
Armorica, which means a maritime region, but which the Welsh call Llydaw,
or Lithuania, which was the name, or something like the name, which the
region bore when Maxen’s army took possession of it, owing, doubtless, to
its having been the quarters of a legion composed of barbarians from the
country of Leth or Lithuania.
After staying about an hour at Caernarvon we started for Llanberis, a few
miles to the east. Llanberis is a small village situated in a valley,
and takes its name from Peris, a British saint of the sixth century, son
of Helig ab Glanog. The valley extends from west to east, having the
great mountain of Snowdon on its south, and a range of immense hills on
its northern, side. We entered this valley by a pass called Nant y Glo
or the ravine of the coal, and passing a lake on our left, on which I
observed a solitary coracle, with a fisherman in it, were presently at
the village. Here we got down at a small inn, and having engaged a young
lad to serve as guide, I set out with Henrietta to ascend the hill, my
wife remaining behind, not deeming herself sufficiently strong to
encounter the fatigue of the expedition.
Pointing with my finger to the head of Snowdon towering a long way from
us in the direction of the east, I said to Henrietta:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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