Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
“It was, indeed,” said I; “according to the words of a poet, who
described it, the Menai could not ebb on account of the torrent of blood
which flowed into it, slaughter was heaped upon slaughter, shout followed
shout, and around Moelfre a thousand war flags waved.”
“Well, sir,” said the old man, “I never before heard anything about it,
indeed I don’t trouble my head with histories, unless they be Bible
histories.”
“Are you a Churchman?” said I.
“No,” said the old man, shortly; “I am a Methodist.”
“I belong to the Church,” said I.
“So I should have guessed, sir, by your being so well acquainted with
pennillion and histories. Ah, the Church. . . .”
“This is dreadfully hot weather,” said I, “and I should like to offer you
sixpence for ale, but as I am a Churchman I suppose you would not accept
it from my hands.”
“The Lord forbid, sir,” said the old man, “that I should be so
uncharitable! If your honour chooses to give me sixpence, I will receive
it willingly. Thank your honour! Well, I have often said there is a
great deal of good in the Church of England.”
I once more looked at the hill which overlooked the scene of Owen
Gwynedd’s triumph over the united forces of the Irish Lochlanders and
Normans, and then after inquiring of the old man whether I was in the
right direction for Penmynnydd, and finding that I was, I set off at a
great pace, singing occasionally snatches of Black Robin’s ode in praise
of Anglesey, amongst others the following stanza:—
“Bread of the wholesomest is found
In my mother-land of Anglesey;
Friendly bounteous men abound
In Penmynnydd of Anglesey.”
I reached Penmynnydd, a small village consisting of a few white houses
and a mill. The meaning of Penmynnydd is literally the top of a hill.
The village does not stand on a hill, but the church, which is at some
distance, stands on one, or rather on a hillock. And it is probable from
the circumstance of the church standing on a hillock, that the parish
derives its name. Towards the church, after a slight glance at the
village, I proceeded with hasty steps, and was soon at the foot of the
hillock. A house, that of the clergyman, stands near the church, on the
top of the hill. I opened a gate, and entered a lane which seemed to
lead up to the church.
As I was passing some low buildings, probably offices pertaining to the
house, a head was thrust from a doorway, which stared at me. It was a
strange hirsute head, and probably looked more strange and hirsute than
it naturally was, owing to its having a hairy cap upon it.
“Good day,” said I.
“Good days, sar,” said the head, and in a moment more a man of middle
stature, about fifty, in hairy cap, shirt-sleeves, and green apron round
his waist, stood before me. He looked the beau-ideal of a servant of all
work.
“Can I see the church?” said I.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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