Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
“Some king, giant, or man of old renown lies buried beneath this cairn,”
said I. “Whoever he may be I trust he will excuse me for mounting it,
seeing that I do so with no disrespectful spirit.” I then mounted the
cairn, exclaiming:
“Who lies ’neath the cairn on the headland hoar,
His hand yet holding his broad claymore,
Is it Beli, the son of Benlli Gawr?”
There stood I on the cairn of the Grey Giant, looking around me. The
prospect, on every side, was noble: the blue interminable sea to the west
and north; the whole stretch of Mona to the east; and far away to the
south the mountainous region of Eryri, comprising some of the most
romantic hills in the world. In some respects this Pen Santaidd, this
holy headland, reminded me of Finisterræ, the Gallegan promontory which I
had ascended some seventeen years before, whilst engaged in battling the
Pope with the sword of the gospel in his favourite territory. Both are
bold, bluff headlands looking to the west, both have huge rocks in their
vicinity, rising from the bosom of the brine. For a time, as I stood on
the cairn, I almost imagined myself on the Gallegan hill; much the same
scenery presented itself as there, and a sun equally fierce struck upon
my head as that which assailed it on the Gallegan hill. For a time all
my thoughts were of Spain. It was not long, however, before I bethought
me that my lot was now in a different region, that I had done with Spain
for ever, after doing for her all that lay in the power of a lone man,
who had never in this world anything to depend upon, but God and his own
slight strength. Yes, I had done with Spain, and was now in Wales; and,
after a slight sigh, my thoughts became all intensely Welsh. I thought
on the old times when Mona was the grand seat of Druidical superstition,
when adoration was paid to Dwy Fawr, and Dwy Fach, the sole survivors of
the apocryphal Deluge; to Hu the Mighty and his plough; to Ceridwen and
her cauldron; to András the Horrible; to Wyn ab Nudd, Lord of Unknown,
and to Beli, Emperor of the Sun. I thought on the times when the Beal
fire blazed on this height, on the neighbouring promontory, on the
copestone of Eryri, and on every high hill throughout Britain on the eve
of the first of May. I thought on the day when the bands of Suetonius
crossed the Menai strait in their broad-bottomed boats, fell upon the
Druids and their followers, who with wild looks and brandished torches
lined the shore, slew hundreds with merciless butchery upon the plains,
and pursued the remainder to the remotest fastnesses of the isle. I
figured to myself long-bearded men with white vestments toiling up the
rocks, followed by fierce warriors with glittering helms and short broad
two-edged swords; I thought I heard groans, cries of rage, and the dull,
awful sound of bodies precipitated down rocks. Then as I looked towards
the sea I thought I saw the fleet of Gryffith Ab Cynan steering from
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