Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
I lay down and drank. O, what water was that of the Fairies’ well! I
drank and drank and thought I could never drink enough of that delicious
water; the lad all the time saying that I need not be afraid to drink, as
the water of the Fairies’ well had never done harm to anybody. At length
I got up, and standing by the fountain repeated the lines of a bard on a
spring, not of a Welsh but a Gaelic bard, which are perhaps the finest
lines ever composed on the theme. Yet MacIntyre, for such was his name,
was like myself an admirer of good ale, to say nothing of whiskey, and
loved to indulge in it at a proper time and place. But there is a time
and place for everything, and sometimes the warmest admirer of ale would
prefer the lymph of the hill-side fountain to the choicest ale that ever
foamed in tankard from the cellars of Holkham. Here are the lines, most
faithfully rendered:
“The wild wine of nature,
Honey-like in its taste,
The genial, fair, thin element
Filtering through the sands,
Which is sweeter than cinnamon,
And is well-known to us hunters.
O, that eternal, healing draught,
Which comes from under the earth,
Which contains abundance of good
And costs no money!”
Returning to the hotel I satisfied my guide and dined. After dinner I
trifled agreeably with my brandy-and-water till it was near seven o’clock
when I paid my bill, thought of the waiter and did not forget Father
Boots. I then took my departure, receiving and returning bows, and
walking to the station got into a first-class carriage and soon found
myself at Bangor.
CHAPTER XLIII
The Inn at Bangor—Port Dyn Norwig—Sea Serpent—Thoroughly Welsh
Place—Blessing of Health.
I went to the same inn at Bangor at which I had been before. It was
Saturday night and the house was thronged with people, who had arrived by
train from Manchester and Liverpool, with the intention of passing the
Sunday in the Welsh town. I took tea in an immense dining or ball-room,
which was, however, so crowded with guests that its walls literally
sweated. Amidst the multitude I felt quite solitary—my beloved ones had
departed for Llangollen, and there was no one with whom I could exchange
a thought or a word of kindness. I addressed several individuals, and in
every instance repented; from some I got no answers, from others what was
worse than no answers at all—in every countenance near me suspicion,
brutality, or conceit, was most legibly imprinted—I was not amongst
Welsh, but the scum of manufacturing England.
Every bed in the house was engaged—the people of the house, however,
provided me a bed at a place which they called the cottage, on the side
of a hill in the outskirts of the town. There I passed the night
comfortably enough. At about eight in the morning I arose, returned to
the inn, breakfasted, and departed for Bethgelert by way of Caernarvon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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