Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
There are several churches dedicated to Garmon in Wales, but whether
there are any dedicated to Lupus I am unable to say.
After leaving Llanarmon I found myself amongst lumpy hills, through which
the road led in the direction of the south. Arriving where several roads
met, I followed one, and became bewildered amidst hills and ravines. At
last I saw a small house close by a nant, or dingle, and turned towards
it for the purpose of inquiring my way. On my knocking at the door, a
woman made her appearance, of whom I asked in Welsh whether I was in the
road to Llan Rhyadr. She said that I was out of it, but that if I went
towards the south I should see a path on my left which would bring me to
it. I asked her how far it was to Llan Rhyadr.
“Four long miles,” she replied.
“And what is the name of the place where we are now?” said I.
“Cae Hir” (the long inclosure), said she.
“Are you alone in the house?” said I.
“Quite alone,” said she; “but my husband and people will soon be home
from the field, for it is getting dusk.”
“Have you any Saxon?” said I.
“Not a word,” said she, “have I of the iaith dieithr, nor has my husband,
nor any one of my people.”
I bade her farewell, and soon reached the road, which led south and
north. As I was bound for the south, I strode forward briskly in that
direction. The road was between romantic hills; heard Welsh songs
proceeding from the hill fields on my right, and the murmur of a brook
rushing down a deep nant on my left. I went on till I came to a
collection of houses which an old woman, with a cracked voice and a small
tin milk-pail, whom I assisted in getting over a stile into the road,
told me was called Pen Strit—probably the head of the street. She spoke
English, and on my asking her how she had learnt the English tongue, she
told me that she had learnt it of her mother, who was an English woman.
She said that I was two miles from Llan Rhyadr, and that I must go
straight forward. I did so, till I reached a place where the road
branched into two, one bearing somewhat to the left, and the other to the
right. After standing a minute in perplexity I took the right-hand road,
but soon guessed that I had taken the wrong one, as the road dwindled
into a mere footpath. Hearing some one walking on the other side of the
hedge, I inquired in Welsh whether I was going right for Llan Rhyadr, and
was answered by a voice in English, apparently that of a woman, that I
was not, and that I must go back. I did so, and presently a woman came
through a gate to me.
“Are you the person,” said I, “who just now answered me in English after
I had spoken in Welsh?”
“In truth I am,” said she, with a half laugh.
“And how came you to answer me in English, after I had spoken to you in
Welsh?”
“Because,” said she, “it was easy enough to know by your voice that you
were an Englishman.”
“You speak English remarkably well,” said I.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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