Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
“I heard of it,” said I, “and tasted of its water the other evening at
the abbey.” Shortly after we saw a tall stone standing in a field on our
right hand at about a hundred yards distance from the road. “That is the
pillar of Eliseg, sir,” said my guide. “Let us go and see it,” said I.
We soon reached the stone. It is a fine upright column about seven feet
high, and stands on a quadrate base. “Sir,” said my guide, “a dead king
lies buried beneath this stone. He was a mighty man of valour and
founded the abbey. He was called Eliseg.” “Perhaps Ellis,” said I, “and
if his name was Ellis his stone was very properly called Colofn Eliseg,
in Saxon the Ellisian column.” The view from the column is very
beautiful, below on the south-east is the venerable abbey, slumbering in
its green meadow. Beyond it runs a stream, descending from the top of a
glen, at the bottom of which the old pile is situated; beyond the stream
is a lofty hill. The glen on the north is bounded by a noble mountain,
covered with wood. Struck with its beauty I inquired its name. “Moel
Eglwysig, sir,” said my guide. “The Moel of the Church,” said I. “That
is hardly a good name for it, for the hill is not bald (moel).” “True,
sir,” said John Jones. “At present its name is good for nothing, but
estalom (of old) before the hill was planted with trees its name was good
enough. Our fathers were not fools when they named their hills.” “I
dare say not,” said I, “nor in many other things which they did, for
which we laugh at them, because we do not know the reasons they had for
doing them.” We regained the road; the road tended to the north up a
steep ascent. I asked John Jones the name of a beautiful village, which
lay far away on our right, over the glen, and near its top. “Pentref y
dwr, sir” (the village of the water). It is called the village of the
water, because the river below comes down through part of it. I next
asked the name of the hill up which we were going, and he told me Allt
Bwlch; that is, the high place of the hollow road.
This bwlch, or hollow way, was a regular pass, which put me wonderfully
in mind of the passes of Spain. It took us a long time to get to the
top. After resting a minute on the summit we began to descend. My guide
pointed out to me some slate-works, at some distance on our left. “There
is a great deal of work going on there, sir,” said he: “all the slates
that you see descending the canal at Llangollen come from there.” The
next moment we heard a blast, and then a thundering sound: “Llais craig
yn syrthiaw; the voice of the rock in falling, sir,” said John Jones;
“blasting is dangerous and awful work.” We reached the bottom of the
descent, and proceeded for two or three miles up and down a rough and
narrow road; I then turned round and looked at the hills which we had
passed over. They looked bulky and huge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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