They sailed on August 11th, and nothing noteworthy happened till
September 6th, on which date we find Dampier dining with Captain
Rogers on board the _Duke_ in company with Cooke and Courtney. Cooke
complained bitterly of the crankness of his ship the _Marquis_, and
objected to the evolutions of the other vessels which obliged him to
tack. They were bound to the Galapagos, and he affirmed that they could
have made the islands without beating to windward. Dampier said, No;
he knew where those islands were, and had described them in one of his
voyages; and he asserted that they were now to the westward of them.
The others agreed with Cooke, but Dampier was pilot, and was therefore
suffered to have his way. They were right and he was wrong; but an
error of a hundred miles or so was reckoned a very trifling blunder in
those hearty, plodding times. A curious old sea-picture is suggested
by this discussion in the cabin of the _Duke_. The rough bulkheads,
the low upper deck, the quaint lanthorn swinging over the table from
a beam, and indicating by its oscillations the ponderous rolling of
the tall, squab, round-bowed fabric; the privateersmen sitting round
the table attired in the wild and picturesque apparel of the early
South Seamen—these are features to bring the scene in clear outlines
before the eye of the imagination. One beholds them poring upon their
old-fashioned charts, pointing to the singular configurations of the
mainland and islands with hairy hands, and disputing with little
anxiety on a difference between easting and westing measuring as many
leagues as the space from the Lizard to the Western Islands. Indeed the
real flavour and charm of the buccaneer's life are not to be expressed
by any mere method of historical treatment. The hand of the artist is
wanted, with imagination vigorous and discerning enough to strictly
correspond with the traditionary truth.
On their arrival at the Galapagos they took in a good supply of turtle,
many of which were upwards of four hundred pounds in weight. Rogers
writes of the turtle as if he had never seen it before. “I do not,” he
says, “affect giving Relations of strange Creatures, so frequently done
by others; but where an uncommon Creature falls in my Way I cannot omit
it.” This is how the captain describes the “uncommon creature.”
“The Creatures are the ugliest in Nature; the Shell, not unlike the Top
of an old Hackney-coach, as black as Jet; and so is the outside Skin,
but shriveled and very rough. The Legs and Neck are long and about the
Bigness of a Man's Wrist; and they have Clubbed Feet as big as one's
Fist, shaped much like those of an Elephant, with five Nails on the
Forefeet and but Four behind, and the Head little, and Visage small
like Snakes; and look very old and black. When at first surprised they
shrink their Head, Neck, and Legs, under their Shell.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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