Winchester, Painted by Wilfrid BallVarley, Telford
History
Winchester, Painted by Wilfrid Ball
Varley, Telford
Winchester (England) -- Description and travel; Winchester (England) -- History; Winchester (England) -- Pictorial works
Side by side with the Fair was the Pilgrim stream, which too reached its
height about this period. We have seen how early in Edward the Elder’s
reign the shrine of St. Josse in Newan Mynstre attracted pilgrims to
Winchester and gave it a reputation--a reputation which the enshrinement
in Edgar’s reign of Swithun’s bones enormously added to. Tales of
miracle were circulated, widespread and equally widely credited,
cripples were healed, the lame walked, and St. Swithun’s became the most
popular pilgrimage centre in all Southern England. From Henry II.’s
reign, though the shrine of Becket rose into importance, St. Swithun’s
did not abate in popularity, and the stream of pious, dust-laden feet
still flowed just the same to and from it, save that many going on
pilgrimage would visit the shrines of both St. Thomas and St. Swithun on
their way. Rich and poor, a-foot or in the saddle, they streamed into
Winchester as soon as the pilgrim season--the early spring, that
is,--arrived. As Chaucer tells us:
Whan that Aprille with his showrès swoote
The drought of Marche hath percèd to the roote,
* * * * *
Thanne longen folk to gon on pilgrimages.
The wealthier lodged in hostelries and inns, the poorer found shelter
and hospitality within the walls of convent or nunnery. From south and
west they came--over the Roman road from Sarum and along the Itchen
valley from Southampton, turning aside to visit St. Cross and receive
the wayfarer’s dole of bread and beer, till they reached the gates of
St. Swithun’s or of Hyde. St. Swithun’s was the chief place of resort.
Here within the Pilgrim’s or Guesten Hall, the greater part of which
still stands, a rough but welcome bed awaited them, while at the buttery
a plentiful meal of broken victuals and beer was to be had for the
asking. Then next morning after mass they would be admitted to the
shrine, to say their prayers, make their humble offering, and depart.
An unwholesome and unsavoury enough crowd, doubtless, in the
main--travel-stained, footsore, and unwashed, disease accompanied them,
frequently enough, from centre to centre, just as plague follows
nowadays the eastern lines of pilgrimage in India and Arabia--and not
even all their piety and devotion could sufficiently endear them to the
monks of St. Swithun as to make them personally acceptable, and secure
unrestricted welcome for them within their church and monastery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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