The difference in ages between the Nieuwe Kerk, just around the corner
from the palace, and the Oude Kerk, or Old Church of Amsterdam, is that
the Oude Kerk was erected in 1300, whereas they didn’t commence work
upon the Nieuwe Kerk until a hundred and eight years later. Both were
doing their religious duties before America was discovered. Successive
conflagrations destroyed different parts of the Nieuwe Kerk and the
first service in the building as it stands to-day was not celebrated
until 1648. The church contains the tombs of three of Holland’s famous
fighting admirals, that of Admiral de Ruyter included, in addition to
the hermes bust of another, and the mausoleum of a Dutch lieutenant
of marines, van Speyk by name, who, during the revolution of Holland,
“maintained on the 5th of February, 1831, before Antwerp, the honor of
his native flag at the cost of his life” by blowing up his gunboat in
the harbor of Antwerp to prevent it from falling into the possession
of the enemy. Since 1814 four kings of Holland have taken the oath of
the constitution in the Nieuwe Kerk and here, on September 6, 1898,
Wilhelmina was formally inaugurated Queen of the Netherlands--an event
recently commemorated by the installation of a handsome stained glass
window in the church. Well might the Nieuwe Kerk be said to be the
Westminster Abbey of Amsterdam.
Connecting the Dam with the central railway station is the wide Damrak,
part of which was at one time a canal. In the opposite direction
wiggles the narrow Kalverstraat, Amsterdam’s principal shopping street,
thronged in the late afternoon and evening with that part of the
population of the city that isn’t sipping coffee in the windows of its
cafés.
[Illustration: The Royal Palace, Amsterdam, facing upon the Dam which
is the axis about which the whole city revolves]
Once I had the misfortune to be stopping in Amsterdam upon the
occasion of the Queen’s birthday, the 31st of August. This not being
sufficient unpremeditated self-punishment, I was provincial enough to
have chosen as headquarters what appeared from across the street to
be a clean, quiet little hotel in the Kalverstraat. The two blended
most harmoniously. Between the unmelodious patriots who paraded the
Kalverstraat from sunset to sunrise, and the battles royal participated
in with the ambidextrous entomological specimens among the bedclothes,
I did anything but enjoy a refreshing night’s rest. To which tale
there are two morals: avoid Amsterdam on the Queen’s birthday, and
little Juliana’s as well, and eschew the hotels in the Kalverstraat
(one especially, which shall be nameless) as you would the nest of the
subtle hornet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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