At the southeastern terminus of the Kalverstraat stands the old Mint
Tower of 1620, and still farther to the east is the Rembrandtplein,
a small, park-centered intersection of streets named in honor of
Holland’s painter _par excellence_, who lived for sixteen years at
No. 4 Joden-Breestraat in Amsterdam’s Jewish quarter, the house having
been since marked with a small memorial tablet.
Here bordering the Rembrandtplein are the larger sidewalk cafés, jammed
of a summer’s evening with pleasure-seeking Amsterdamers, each with a
cup or a glass of something in front of him. Like those found in the
ordinary German cafés these crowds seldom change. Here you may find
the same people at eleven that you have seen at seven, and in exactly
the same positions. A cup of coffee followed by a cordial is the usual
evening’s refreshment programme, the consuming time of which the
Amsterdamer will expand into a couple of hours by the assiduous perusal
of every newspaper and periodical he can inveigle the waiter to bring
him, interrupted only by an occasional sip of his beverage. Even the
persistent street singers, who come one at a time to prolong the agony
and stand but a few feet away from his table, yelling triumphantly
into his ear, fail to disturb him in the least. If, unthinkingly, he
finishes his refreshment before he considers the time has arrived to go
home to bed, he will calmly smoke out the remainder of the engagement.
The expenditure of half a _gulden_ or less will buy his contentment
until the following evening.
Many of the indoor cafés charge a small admission fee for the privilege
of listening to a “lady orchestra.” In each of these that part which
is adjacent to the street will be partitioned off by a dark curtain,
so that the patrons of the place may choose, if there be any choice,
between the crowds on the street and the vaudeville turns that may be
scheduled to follow the sufferings of the musicians.
On the Rembrandtplein stands also the Rembrandt theater, Amsterdam’s
principal playhouse, which, by way of information, is closed in summer.
But, by way of further information, there are in the city a number of
vaudeville theaters that cater to the less exacting in the matter of
histrionic art and are open throughout the year, offering more or less
respectable performances.
To one of these near the Rembrandtplein I wended my way upon a certain
evening, desirous of being amused, no matter what the consequences.
I obtained my money’s worth, and more. It cost me one and a half
_gulden_ to get in, and it might have cost me an ear, or other
projecting appendage, to get out if I had not slipped through a side
exit as inconspicuously as I could during the height of the mêlée and
commenced forthwith to accelerate my gait toward the hotel. I think the
disturbance was inaugurated by an American protégé of His Pugilistic
Highness, John Johnson, but I did not consider it exactly safe at the
time to tarry longer in order to ascertain definitely.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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