The Rijks or Royal Museum stands in a prominent location to the south
of the Old Town, surrounded by the more fashionable residence section
and the Vondel Park. From street floor to gables it is filled with
objects of historical and technical interest. It would take just as
long to “do” it thoroughly as it would the British Museum in London or
the Metropolitan in New York. But the tourist in Holland, usually of
limited time allowance, contents himself with a hurried inspection of
the different collections in the Rijks Museum and a view of the _pièce
de resistance_ of its picture gallery, namely, the world renowned
painting by Rembrandt erroneously styled “The Night Watch.” Many having
been led to believe, on account of the very marvelous chiaroscuro of
the picture, that Rembrandt intended it to represent a street scene at
night, its present title has been given universal usage; but in reality
the scene depicted takes place in daylight. It is the largest and most
justly celebrated work by Rembrandt, being fourteen and a quarter feet
long, and eleven and three quarters feet wide. It was painted in 1642,
and represents a small company of arquebusiers under Captain Franz Cocq
emerging from their shooting gallery, or _doele_--a name so commonly
given to Dutch hotels that you will find a “Hotel de Doelen” in almost
every town in Holland. The supposed night shadows in the picture are
in truth cast by the lofty vaulting of the gallery. The portraits of
the sixteen members of the guild were done from life, and each member
represented in the picture paid the artist one hundred _gulden_, which
remunerated him to the extent of something less than $800 for his
labors. To-day the painting could not be purchased at any price.
Not the least interesting--nor most fragrant--section of Amsterdam
is its Jewish Quarter, situated in the eastern part of the Old Town.
The quarter is a typical city in itself, for of Amsterdam’s total
population more than 60,000 are Jews. It possesses ten synagogues,
the largest of which, erected as early as 1670 by the Portuguese
Jews and said to resemble as far as possible the ancient Temple
of Solomon, stands in the Muiderstraat. Freedom of religion was
accorded these persecuted peoples early in the history of Amsterdam,
and to Amsterdam as an asylum they flocked, first from Spain in the
fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, a little later from Portugal, then
from the Spanish Netherlands, from Germany, and from Poland. In the
administration and the commercial enterprises of the city their wealth
wielded much influence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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