Amsterdam is indebted to those Portuguese Jews who emigrated from
Antwerp in 1576 for the introduction of its most widely known industry,
that of diamond polishing--an art utterly unknown in Europe prior to
the fifteenth century. To-day there are more than seventy diamond
polishing establishments in and about the city, employing some 10,000
men, and they are building a new diamond exchange to cost in the
neighborhood of $240,000. The cut diamonds exported to the United
States from the Amsterdam district alone in 1909--the latest figures
at my elbow--were valued at $13,319,417, in addition to more than a
million dollars’ worth in the rough.
The rules of the London syndicate from which every Amsterdam diamond
polisher must purchase his uncut stones are equally strict with the
regulation of the diamond workers’ organization.
In the former case, a diamond polisher must procure an introduction to
the London merchant through the de Beers syndicate in order to obtain a
“sight.” If a polisher is buying diamonds of one class, say Kimberly,
he may not under any circumstances obtain a “sight” of diamonds of any
other class, say Jagerfontein. He may examine the parcel of diamonds
offered to him for a “sight” for fifteen minutes, no longer. If they do
not suit him his trip to London has been of no avail. He must take what
is offered or nothing, and at the price quoted. Until five years ago a
polisher was punished by not being able to obtain a “sight” for a year
if he refused to accept a parcel offered for purchase, and he would
often pay a premium of $4,000 for another man’s packet without seeing a
stone.
With regard to the worker, no one in Amsterdam may learn the trade of
diamond polishing without the consent of the organization and unless he
be the son of a diamond worker or jeweler. He must be under eighteen
years of age, he must pass a rigid examination, and if he desires to
become a cleaver--the highest salaried artisan in the diamond industry,
whose wages often amount to $120 a week--he must pay sometimes as much
as $2,000. There are special schools in Amsterdam for turners and
polishers which charge an instruction fee ranging from $120 to $150.
The rough diamond is first cleaved by hand, or, if thought more
profitable, it is set in a bar of hot lead which, after having cooled,
is placed in front of a phosphor-bronze saw and sawed in half.
Whether or not this saw may be used a second time depends upon the
crystallization of the stone sawed. Some stones that, after being
sawed, are considered too hard to polish, are pulverized and mixed
with emery dust to be used in making the saws. The two halves of the
original stone are then handed over to the cutters who cut them round,
or nearly so, and remove the flaws. The polishers then polish the
stones and make their facets, which, in the case of a gem of the first
class, number from fifty-eight to sixty-four.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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