Disembarking from the train, you will turn instinctively to the north
through a wide avenue--a veritable tunnel through the trees. After
crossing the drawbridge that spans the canal at the end of the avenue,
you must turn abruptly to the left. The first cross street--little
more than an alleyway between the houses--is barricaded at its farther
extremity by a steep, grass-grown embankment that towers almost to the
same altitude as the chimney pots of the house tops below. A flight of
thirty-one steps ascends to the top of this peculiar embankment and
you scramble up, expecting to behold on the other side a view of--you
scarcely know what. You are surprised to discover that the view is
a sea-scape, for, if you have failed to observe The Helder’s lofty
lighthouse, it has not been suggested to you that the sea is anywhere
in the neighborhood.
You will be standing on the top of one of the greatest and strongest
dikes in Holland, its business side stretching away before you at
an angle of forty degrees for two hundred feet into the Strait of
Marsdiep. Extending a total distance of five miles in the arc of
a circle, this, then, is the sloping buttress that North Holland
relies upon for its very life. A severe storm will lash the water
of the strait into spray, and fling it across into the windows of
the bordering houses, but the highest of tides cannot come over the
backbone of the dike, while at all times the water laps restlessly at
its foundations. The top of the dike is mounted with a roadway twelve
feet in width. Some feet above the water line at low tide the tops of
great stone breakwaters, like the ribs of a dinosaur, stretch seaward
at regular intervals. The whole of this remarkable artificial coast is
constructed of Norwegian granite.
Upon the summits of a few sand dunes that raise themselves here and
there behind the dike the Dutch have completed the construction of
some rather crude military fortifications which Napoleon commenced in
1811. But improvements upon them are going on apace, for Holland is not
exactly anxious to suffer an experience with regard to her string of
islands in the north, in furthering German aggrandizement as did the
Danes of Helgoland before the gun muzzles of the British in 1807.
The single point of North Holland, however, most exposed to sea
encroachments is a few miles south of The Helder on the North Sea. Here
there is a chain of three great dikes, one beyond the other, named
significantly, beginning with the one farthest from the shore, “The
Waker,” “The Dreamer,” and “The Sleeper.” Still farther to the south,
on the same side of the province, are the great sand dunes, three miles
in width in some places, under the protection of which the freight
boats from Amsterdam creep to their destinations along the North Sea
Canal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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